What To Put Under Horse Stall Mats? (Best solution)

What do you put under a horse stall mat? The proper surface for under horse stall mats is concrete, asphalt, wood or a well compacted surface consisting of fines 1/8 inch in size or smaller.

Should a horse stall mat be rippled or grooved?

  • Top surfaces should be rippled or bumped to add traction, and the base of the mat should be grooved to help remove any urine that leaks through joints from the surface. Untextured mats are slippery when wet. A mat surface makes stall cleaning easy but care must be taken with forks to prevent cutting the surface.

What is a good base for horse stalls?

A well-drained sand or gravel base under the concrete is desirable, but not required. – Impervious floors require a level evenly compacted sub-layer. Sand or fine gravel may provide structural support and underground drainage. Solid rubber mats are often laid over concrete or well-packed road base mix.

Can you put stall mats on dirt?

This is the most important step for getting the most out of your stall mats. Large holes, cracks, voids, or out of level areas should be filled and leveled. Sand, dirt, or clay are not recommended as installation surfaces.

How do you keep horse stall mats from sliding?

It really is as simple as starting with a compacted, level subfloor, and eliminating any space between mats for shavings and waste to get in between and under the mats. Choosing mats that are heavy duty and those with an interlocking, tight fit will help prevent stall mats from slipping and sliding.

What soaks up horse urine?

White vinegar is right up there with baking soda as an accessible and inexpensive barn odor neutralizer—as long as you prefer the smell of vinegar to the barn smells! Keep some vinegar in a spray bottle and spray your horse’s mats before adding shavings and also spray it on the stall walls.

Do horse stalls need mats?

Horse stall mats help to prevent horses from digging in their stalls. Your bedding stays cleaner, your stalls are easier to clean, and there’s less maintenance required for your stall floor. Stall mats can help to increase your horse’s comfort, especially when you’re dealing with a hard subfloor, like concrete.

What is the best footing for a horse paddock?

Rock products, also known as sand and gravel, are a great choice for paddock footing because they are extremely slow to break down, don’t hold moisture or bacteria, and can be supported for a stronger base.

What side of a stall mat goes up?

I recommend going with the diamond side up on your horse stall mats. It looks better in my opinion and once you get them broken in a bit, they perform better as well. Having said that, if you happen to go with other side for whatever reason, you should be just fine.

How many 4×6 stall mats for a 12×12 stall?

Many retailers sell 4×6 foot rubber mats for horse stalls, which horse owners then cut to fit their standard 12×12 foot stall. You will need approximately 6 mats to cover a standard 12×12 foot stall.

Can you leave horse stall mats outside?

Remember, Horse Stall Mats are designed to be used for horses, outside, in large well ventilated barns. When you put these same mats into a much smaller space, the smell can completely saturate that room pretty quickly. If you’re putting your mats into a room that is not your garage – your basement, for example.

Can you seal rubber horse mats?

While floor sealers are beneficial for any porous floor, rubber flooring and mats are a prime candidate for sealant due to their deep pores and flexible surface. Without proper care and sealant, rubber flooring can become dull, dingy and difficult to clean.

Can horse stall mats get wet?

Pros of Horse Stall Mats for Gym Flooring Water-resistant: One of the best things about rubber flooring is that it is extremely slip-resistant and water-resistant. You don’t have to worry about slipping and sliding around if you get a little sweaty.

How do you hold a stall mat in place?

One of the fixes is simple, cheap, and something most with a home gym can do. Add Gorilla Tape to the corners and other spots where the horse stall mats connect. After adding tape to the corners, a few additional pieces in between will keep them from coming apart.

What to Use Under Horse Stall Mats

Installing a horse stall mat for your animal area isn’t always as straightforward as simply selecting an inexpensive one and slapping it down. You will want to think about what sort of subfloor or subsurface will be used as the basis for the horse stall mat before you purchase one. In some cases, you may need to modify the subsurface to accommodate stall mats and huge animals, depending on the sort of surface that currently exists. So, what do you place under the stall mat to make it more appropriate for the situation?

What to Use Under Horse Stall Mats

  1. Tamped gravel, wood, asphalt, packed limestone fines (18 inch or smaller), granite, or any other flat, well-compacted surface are all acceptable.

Once you’ve chosen which level of flooring is the most appropriate for your barn, you’ll want to assess whether or not the horse stall mat you’re contemplating will be a suitable match for the available area in the barn. The surface should be evaluated for moisture and/or severe temperatures, such as freeze-thaw situations, among other factors, before installation. There are several different horse stall mat alternatives available from Greatmats, each of which is suitable for a particular type of subfloor and subsurface scenario.

Horse Stall Mat Options

The 12×12 mat package is a horse stall mat solution that is easy to use for horse owners. These stalls are pre-sized for 12×12 stalls and are 34 inch thick, making them extremely durable for horses and other large livestock. With their pre-cut component pieces, these mats perform best when laid on compacted crushed stone or comparable surfaces. They are also extremely simple to build due to their modular design. Their interlocking seams make cleaning a breeze since they prevent bedding and trash from being separated or accumulating between or beneath the mats.

Each mat is sold separately.

4×6 Straight Edge Sundance Mat

The Sundance mat, which measures 4×6 and is 3/4 inch thick and robust, is an ideal straight edge horse stall mat. Because of its shock-absorbing properties, this multipurpose product performs a fantastic job of providing comfort and traction for your animals. In addition to being able to be put on any flat, solid surface, such as a barn aisleway, they also provide excellent insulation against cold and wet flooring. Anti-fatigue properties of this mat are enhanced by the fact that it helps to avoid slippage and reduces bedding expenses.

The mats’ straight edges make it simple to install them by just lining them up precisely next to each other, and the mats’ 100-pound weight ensures that they will not be easily jostled out of position by horses or other livestock.

These are a high-quality, multi-purpose mat that is offered at a reasonable price and is backed by a ten-year warranty.

Portable Horse Stall Mats

Stall mats used in traditional horse stalls are constructed of heavy-duty, recycled rubber, and they contain a substantial amount of weight to hold them in place. However, there are situations when you may want a portable solution that can be moved with you to a temporary stall. These should be portable and lightweight, making them easy to transport. 2.2 pounds is the weight of the portable horse stall mat, which is a 3/4-inch EVA foam mat with an interlock design that is quick and easy to put up.

These perform exceptionally well for horse shows, fairs, and displays, as well as in trailers, and they can be put over any flat surface with relative ease and speed.

They have the ability to absorb a significant amount of impact and protect your horse from damage.

3×3 Rubber Ring Mats

The 3×3 ring matiis a fantastic choice if you are looking for a horse stall mat that is ideal for use in a damp environment. These robust, anti-fatigue, anti-slip mats are perforated with holes to enable water to drain through, making them ideal for use in wash bays and other damp places. The 5/8-inch thickness enables for the support of big loads, and they are made of a robust, waterproof material that can be used both indoors and out in all weather. Their performance is enhanced when they are laid directly on concrete or similar flat, smooth surface.

12×12 Foot One Piece Mat

It is particularly popular among veterinarians and boarding establishments because of its huge, one-piece horse stall mat option. Each mat is 12×12 feet in size and is constructed entirely of clean, recycled rubber (100 percent). They are sturdy and long-lasting, and they lay flat without the use of adhesives or other fasteners. The horse stall mat’s 17mm (.66 inch) thickness ensures long-term durability, and it has the greatest traction rating in the market. If you have failing or leaking flooring seams, this is a fantastic answer for you.

The manufacturer provides a 5-year guarantee on this device.

All of the mats are of the highest quality, with stringent tolerance limits, excellent warranties, and the greatest customer service available anywhere.

Provide them with information about the size of your room, the type of subfloor, and any special requirements you may have, and they will assist you in selecting the best mat or mats for your needs. For further information on this subject, please see our Horse Stall Mats, Equine Rubberproduct page.

Install Horse-Stall Mats

In addition to being wonderful for your horse’s health, rubber stall mats also provide a substantial amount of cushion, which is helpful for joints and soft tissue. In terms of your horse’s health, rubber stall mats are fantastic since they provide a dry, flat surface for him to stand on, which is far better for his feet than holes, pebbles, and wet patches in the stall. The cushioning of stall mats is also substantial, which is beneficial to joints and soft tissue. With the use of stall mats, you may be able to completely remove the need for bedding.

  • The use of rubber stall mats also makes chore time much more convenient.
  • You may either minimize the quantity of bedding you now use or bed just in designated “potty locations,” so reducing both the amount of bedding used and the amount of stall waste generated.
  • Stall mats should be fitted tightly in a stall from wall to wall in order to prevent urine seepage beneath them.
  • Supplies for Stall-Mats First and foremost, collect your supplies.
  • If you have concrete floors, all of the supplies from the stall mats on down will enough to complete the project.
  • Avoid using pea gravel or sand as footing materials because they are too mushy and will not compact.
  • Two 2″ x 4″ pieces of wood? two of them: one that has been treated and is long enough to be installed across the front of the stall door, and one that is between 6 and 8 feet long
  • Garden rake made of metal
  • Level of a carpenter. This is something you can rent or borrow: a hand compactor. Mats for the stall (enough to cover the entire space)
  • Pry bar or metal T-post with a long handle
  • Two vice grips (four are extremely better)
  • A pair of pliers a tape measure is a tool used to measure anything. Use chalk (or a chalk line) to mark the mats where they will be cut
  • A straight edge that is at least 3 feet long
  • Knife for carpeting (also known as a utility knife)

Techniques of Installation Here’s how to put the mats in place. (If your flooring are concrete, you may go forward to Step 6.) The treated 2″ x 4″ board is attached across the inside of the stall doorway (Note: If your stall has a lip or an edge at least 2?” high, you can skip this step). Adding 5/8″ minus gravel (spreading as you go) up to the top of the 2″ x 4″ should take no more than two minutes. Step 3.Use the garden rake to smooth and level the gravel in the stall to a rough finish. Then, using the 6′ to 8′ long 2″ x 4″ board and a carpenter’s level, level the gravel throughout the entire stall until it is level throughout the whole thing.

  1. There should be approximately 1″ of compacted gravel below the chosen finish line.
  2. With the mat draped across the bar, it may be carried by two persons.
  3. Move the mats into position by using vice grips as handles.
  4. Please keep in mind that this step is crucial.
  5. (A segment less than two feet square is considered inadequate.) After the gravel has been laid out, smoothed, and compacted, it is time to install all of the mats.
  6. Using chalk, mark the mats where they will be placed in the remaining area.

The mats should be cut using the straight edge and the utility knife in Step 9. (You’ll need to cut through the mat several times in order to get it all the way through). Place the stall mats together tightly, allowing approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″ of space between the mats.

What’s Under Your Horse’s Bedding?

  • In most cases, we don’t spend much time or effort contemplating what lies behind that lovely fluffy pile of shavings in your horse’s stall. But there is something there. So long as it isn’t time for spring cleaning, or until the mats begin to warp, or until there is an earthquake or a heavy downpour
  • The great majority of us have stalls with shavings on the floor rather than mats or mud, and that is the end of that narrative. However, there will come a time when the once-smooth earth becomes a large bowl, or when the mats begin to distort as a result of the moist and shifting ground beneath the mats.
  • Equine routines like as going to the restroom, relaxing, and sleeping are *usually* remarkably consistent and predictable. All of those pee streaks and weight-bearing hoof markings may be a real pain in the buttocks when it comes to stall cleaning
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Shavings over matting are simple and effective.

Dirt floors in a stall

  • There were a couple of piles of shavings here and there, and the rest was bare soil. The drippy waterer, the horse that paws, and the chronic “will only pee in one location ever” horse are examples of what you could encounter. What little time you saved by sorting through a little amount of shavings was rapidly consumed by the daily raking and packing of the stall floor

This stall mat system is built on top of gravel, which is on top of the ground. Extra drainage is required.

Add mats to your horse’s stall.

  • This is fantastic — except that every now and then, the fractures would allow the pee to sink into the earth below and put a hoof on top, resulting in a wonderful mat-warping urine sinkhole thing over time. As a result, you remove the mats, scrape off the damp patch, fill it with soil, cover it with mats, and re-bed
  • If you are unfortunate enough to live in an area with clay soil, you are well aware that this material changes and moves whether there are earthquakes or not. If you have a very strong rain, the clay streams can be forced directly into your stalls, even up through mat gaps from the area outside the barn. It’s not enjoyable

Mats will shift as a result of the combination of horses and the ground. Changing mats enable urine and water to seep beneath the mats, warping them over time. This article contains helpful hints for stripping stalls and dealing with this situation.

Mats that interlock will go a long way.

  • In spite of your horse’s best attempts, interlocking mats have a strong tendency to remain in place. Even while they will let some urine to leak through, the quantity of movement that happens is not as great as with non-interlocking stall mats.
  • For added stability, you can invest in a netting system that will go under your stalls or simply under your bedding to prevent things from shifting. These systems also aid in the prevention of holes in the dirt floor of your barn

This sort of “netting” system aids in the leveling of the flooring. Whether you use beneath mats or not is up to you. An example of a similar sort of netting used outside in a heavy traffic area, which is excellent for drainage and accommodating a large number of hooves.

Another option is to install a mattress system.

  • Wall-to-wall (no seams) solid surface stall flooring that is incredibly thick and comfortable is what these systems are. These are fantastic! Because the cushion eliminates the need for heavy bedding, you may reduce the amount of bedding you need to use. There are additional flooring systems that are wall to wall but do not have a cushion
  • These are known as hard surface flooring systems.

This stall, which has a mattress that runs the length of the stall, provides comfort and eliminates the need for heaps of shavings.

  • You may also choose from concrete, matting, and shavings, among other options. This is ideal for horses that have a clay pit under their stall or who prefer to urinate exclusively on the seams of their stall. In my experience, this combination of firm concrete and matting is quite beneficial to horses.

Stall flooring, of course, gets much more complicated when you factor in what sort of soil is native to your area.

  • There are farms in the desert that just utilize the sand as bedding, something I’ve witnessed firsthand! I’ve also seen barns that required to be elevated in order to keep the damp dirt underneath the stalls from interfering with the horses’ movements.
  • The soil in your location, on the other hand, will dictate how you should prepare the flooring for drainage, stability, and insulation. It is vital to have insulation if you live in a freezing climate since it is necessary to preserve the pipes.
  • The most effective course of action is to consult with a grading contractor in your region who specializes in drainage issues. Make sure you’re ready to learn about anything from stone dust to gravel to DG and all kinds of other interesting dirt! It will be less necessary to remove mats, clean out the offending area, infill the offending area, and reinstall the mats and bedding if the right basis has been established for your stall mats.

What method do you use to stack your stalls? In the meanwhile, before you go crazy over comfortable stalls and bedding that reaches their whiskers, allow me to state the obvious. If horses are given a choice as to where they would sleep and spend their time, they will almost certainly choose to sleep and spend their time outside on hard ground in the dirtiest available location. This is only fodder for thinking. However, you must have level stalls that are safe and not filled with pee potholes in order to operate successfully.

What do you put under a horse stall mat?

MatSupplies has a stall. Depending on whether your floor is dirt or clay, you’ll need enough gravel (crushed rock sized 3/8″ to 5/8″) to fill the stall area up to about 1″ below the ideal level (see illustration). Avoid using pea gravel or sand as foundation materials since they are too mushy and will not compact. GUIDELINES FOR INSTALLATION:

  1. Take a measurement of the stall
  2. Ensure that the stall is well cleaned. Dig the stall floor down at least three inches below the level of the surface top you want to have
  3. And Prepare the surface by sanding it*
  4. Distribute the gravel
  5. Stomp on the gravel To begin, wet the gravel and sprinkle it lightly with cement, allowing it to dry before continuing.

Furthermore, how deep should the shavings be in a horse stall be? Because shavings will compress and pack beneath the horse’s weight, make sure you use enough bedding to make up for it. One barn management advised that stalls have bedded at least a foot deep. In light of this, what do you think is the ideal floor for horse stalls? Concrete. Stables have a lot of concrete flooring on the floors. It is extremely long-lasting, easy to clean, and difficult to damage. Because it can be slippery, while extremely smooth polished concrete may be appealing and simple to sweep in feed and tack rooms, textured concrete is preferable for stalls and lanes because it provides more grip.

They are designed for horses that weigh more than 1200 pounds and are balanced on four sharp-ish hooves rather than on good rubber tires.

Of course, driving a car on them will get them dirty, which will make cleanup time more difficult, but other than that, everything should be alright.

How to Install Stall Mats for Horses and Livestock?


  1. Take a measurement of the stall. A pressure treated or outdoor-rated wood board can be used to fill up any uneven spots. Thoroughly clean the stall before using it. If your stall has a concrete, asphalt, or wood floor, you can skip to step 8
  2. Otherwise, continue to step 9. Dig the stall floor down at least three inches below the level of the surface top you want to have
  3. And Prepare the surface by sanding it down. This is the most critical step in ensuring that your stall mats perform to their full potential. Large holes, fissures, gaps, and out-of-level locations should be fixed and leveled as soon as they are discovered. The use of sand, mud, or clay as installation surfaces is not suggested. The optimum surface is a 3 inch thick compacted layer of 3/4 inch thick concrete “gravel that has been crushed Decomposed granite or limestone should be used instead of crushed gravel if crushed gravel is not available. The gravel should be spread out. (4 inches of 3/4 inch thick) “3 inches of compacted gravel = 3 inches of crushed gravel)
  4. Using your hands, tamp down the gravel. It is advised that you rent a vibrating plate-style compactor, since this will produce the greatest results. To begin, wet the gravel and sprinkle it lightly with cement, allowing it to dry before continuing. The use of two individuals is recommended when unpacking and relocating your mats. Before going on to the next mat, roll it up. Begin putting mats in the centre of the stall, being sure to keep the factory sheared edges together as much as possible. Build up your stall by laying mats close to the beginning mat and moving inward toward the boundaries. Make any necessary changes to the exterior borders to create the closest fit possible


  1. Mark the mats you will need to cut with chalk or a chalk line if you are using a chalk line. Place your straight edge on the mats where the relevant marks have been made with a pencil
  2. Then, while holding the straight edge firmly in place, score the mats two or three times with the knife (a nonretractable utility knife or a high-quality steel knife is preferred). Grab the mat at the score line, raise and bend the mat toward you until it is parallel to the floor. The scoreboard will “burst open” at some point. Cut down the established cut with the knife many more times, working your way down the cut, until the cut is complete
  3. Continue with the next mat and place it where it is needed. In order to get optimal installation results, set the cut edges against a wall first, after which the factory-sheared edges will come together in the center of the stall for the optimum fit.

If you follow the above-mentioned surface preparation processes, you will have a sturdy surface beneath your mats. Some surfaces will require re-leveling after a few weeks of usage, depending on the material. This is normally reserved for high-traffic areas and only has to be done one time per building. It’s important to re-level any places where you observe low spots beneath the mats or if you notice some mats have edges that are pushing up from material moving underneath them. A few minutes spent ensuring that the surface is level will ensure that your stall mats remain in excellent condition for many years to come.

Tenderfoot Stall Mats are also compatible with a variety of rubber adhesives, seam sealants, and high-grade steel blades, all of which are available for purchase.

* In regions with poor drainage, a layer of Geotextile fabric can be put between the sub-floor and the gravel to provide the best possible installation of the flooring.

Stall Flooring: What You Need to Know

Why Should You Be Concerned About Stall Flooring? Isn’t it true that horses had been around for hundreds of years before the introduction of the ubiquitous rubber stallmat? Of course, they did, but they weren’t restricted to stalls for the majority of the day back then, as they are now. Until the invention of the vehicle and the delivery truck, horses were literally the motor behind the conveyance of people and things from one location to the next. When left to their own devices, mustangs may cover more than 20 miles per day in their hunt for food, water and shelter.

Considering that the horse was created by nature to be on the move practically constantly, the modern horse’s stall-bound existence creates significant difficulties.

Stall Flooring for a Variety of Applications In addition to providing cushioning and stability for horses at home and away from the stables, in trailers, grooming areas, and tack rooms, stall flooring also provides a wide range of benefits for the horse, from absorbing concussion to returning energy with each step, as well as adding durability, traction, and a level surface to the horse’s stall floor Horse housing can be in the form of a box stall or an in-and-out stall, as well as a loafing shed or a basic shade shelter.

  • Regardless of its grandeur or lack thereof, this is most likely where your horse will spend the most of his time.
  • Tack rooms, feed rooms, farrier bays, grooming stalls, veterinarian spaces, and other service areas can be found in a barn, among other things.
  • With uneven dirt flooring, damp stains left by the previous inhabitant, patched or even missing canvas walls, and so forth, show stabling may be pretty depressing.
  • Bringing your own stall flooring, even if it is an absolute nightmare to install, may offer your horse with the setting he requires to be well-rested, fresh, and enthusiastic about his work.
  • Fortunately, this is changing.
  • In addition, longer trailer drives to more distant events are more stressful on the horses.

Great flooring can contribute to the creation of outstanding performances. Problems with the flooring in the stalls When the improper type of flooring is installed in the stall, it might result in a slew of issues.

  • Holes and uneven surfaces can place unnecessary strain on a horse’s legs, causing tendons and ligaments to be damaged as a result. Damp, moist surfaces can support the growth of bacteria, which release ammonia into the environment, causing respiratory system damage– or they can support the growth of mold, which can be far more harmful. Sandy soil can move and, if taken in large quantities, can result in sand colic. Firm flooring, whether it be highly-compacted native dirt or hard rubber mats, can be a source of hock sores, hip sores, and pastern sores, particularly in thin-skinned horses, and should be avoided. In most cases, rubber mats are sold in rectangular sections that may be further cut down to meet the specific measurements of the horse’s stable. During a thunderstorm, urine can leak through the crevices and gather below the mat, where it breeds bacteria, which in turn releases ammonia fumes that are harmful to the lungs of horses and humans alike.
  • Rubber mats placed on “native soil” will only go so far in terms of improving the conditions under the horses’ hooves. A study revealed that certain mats were just 3 percent softer than concrete when compared to the concrete in the same study. Furthermore, those that are softer are more susceptible to damage and degeneration at a faster rate over time. In some stall flooring systems that employ geotextile topcovers, the topcovers can wear out quickly and even rip, exposing the system to the same bacteria-and-ammonia cycle mentioned above. It is possible for a horse to trip or twist or strain a joint, tendon, or ligament when using crumb rubber-filled tubes in some stall flooring systems since these tubes do not create a flat and supporting surface for the horse to stand on.
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Questions Regarding Stall Flooring How do you make a decision when you’ve considered all of your options? To make things easier to understand, we’ll break it down step by step so you can pick the best stall flooring for your horse. First and foremost, consider your horse’s living circumstances. Do you board your horse or do you keep him at your residence? If your horse is at home, you have the freedom to pick whatever you want. If you board your horse, on the other hand, you’ll want to check with the yard manager to make sure your selection will be appropriate.

  1. Consider if the box stall portion of the equation should have one type of stall flooring while the space directly outside the door should have a different sort of stall flooring altogether.
  2. Is he more comfortable napping indoors or outside?
  3. Is the drainage system designed to divert standing water away from your horse’s barn?
  4. Even light rain may make horsekeeping tasks difficult if runoff water gets into your hay room or into your horse’s stall.
  5. If you have any questions, you should consult with the stall flooring business.
  6. Inquire about any troubles that previous customers have experienced throughout the installation process so that you don’t make the same mistakes.
  7. What additional issues does he have, such as repeated laminitis, a recovery time after a tendon injury, or other physical ailments that necessitate a change in routine?

If so, the stall flooring may be compromised.

Solutions for Stall Flooring When it comes to stall flooring, there is something for everyone, and there is something for every budget.

Cons: If not put correctly over a flat surface, the mats might bend at the corners, allowing urine to escape through the spaces between the mats and creating a bacteria breeding ground beneath the mats, which is the cause of offensive ammonia odors.

Cons: They are the same as classic hard rubber mats, and because some of these mats are not as thick as others, they tend to wear out more quickly.

Cons: Because of the soft rubber, these mats are less durable than other rubber mats.

Cons: As the coating wears away, a porous geotextile fabric is exposed, which collects urine and allows bacteria growth and ammonia off-gassing to occur inside the baffles, which is not ideal. ComfortStall® Orthopedic Sealed Flooring System is an orthopedic sealed flooring system.

  • ComfortStall promotes joint health in a comfortable manner. Because ComfortStall supports joints, tendons and ligaments – owing to the therapeutic features of its flat surface that “springs” back with every stride – mobility, flexibility, and hoof quality are improved. ComfortStall helps to promote the health of the respiratory system. Because of the sealed impermeable one-piece IroncladTM Top Cover, stall air quality is considerably improved because urine cannot slip below and generate urea, germs, and ammonia fumes that are hazardous to a horse’s (and human’) respiratory system. ComfortStalle eliminates the occurrence of hock sores. Horses can get to their feet without scuffing or slipping on the non-slip, non-abrasive surface. As a result of the weight of their bodies, their hooves sink down into the cushioned floor, allowing them to lie down and rise up with ease. ComfortStall increases the overall quality of sleep. Horses have been observed resting on bare ComfortStall flooring for extended periods of time, presumably obtaining the critical REM sleep.
  • ComfortStall provides relief to horses suffering with aching feet and other symptoms of laminitis. Pros: In addition to providing a nice and supportive cushion to stand on, the cushioned flooring encourages them to lie down more and take the weight off their feet. ComfortStall lowers the need for standing bandages, which is a plus. Its cushioned flooring has a’spring’ in it, which massages the horse’s frogs and increases blood circulation with every stride
  • It also has a’spring’ in it. The ComfortStall provides full-body support for people who are seated in a reclined position. When the horse lies down and rises, the orthopedic cushioned flooring system gives the necessary ‘give’ under the hip, shoulder, and pastern bones. ComfortStall provides heat insulation, which is a plus. The cold and dampness of concrete and packed-earth flooring, as well as the heat, are no longer a concern for anybody. ComfortStall flooring provide thermal insulation from -70 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • ComfortStall requires less bedding than other options. Due to the fact that bedding is only required to absorb urine, ComfortStall considerably decreases the costs associated with purchasing, washing, and disposing of bedding. Advantages:ComfortStall is a wise investment. In most cases, the cost savings from using less bedding more than offsets the expense of purchasing and installing ComfortStall within six months to one year

When it comes time to shop for stall flooring, make sure to consider all of the options before making a decision. It is essential for the health and well-being of your horse. Learn more about ComfortStall by visiting their website.

Working With & Securing Stall Mats in a Garage Gym

I don’t have to tell most of you who run garage gyms and CrossFit affiliate gyms where to find sturdy rubber flooring for a reasonable price. You already know. That’s right, stall mats for horses! Stall mats are without a doubt the most cost-effective alternative for gym flooring; flooring that will never need to be replaced or serviced, to be precise. Stall mats are an excellent value at $1.66 per square foot. They’re 3 inches thick, extremely dense, laser cut, and offered in sheets of 4 feet by 6 feet for just $40 apiece (Tractor Supply Co.).

  1. You don’t want to have to pay for shipping on them, which weigh 100 pounds each.
  2. Either you can just put them down where you want them and be done with it, as seen above, or you can figure out a means to anchor them to the foundation underneath them.
  3. Nevertheless, as many of you are already aware, if you do not manage to secure them in some way, you will spend a significant amount of time kicking and shoving them back into place.
  4. In this case, I had OCD, so I was not going to put up with any of that slipping and sliding around crap.
  5. In addition, I’ll provide a couple of alternatives to what I’ve done thus far.
  6. Always keep in mind that if you have enough heavy equipment parked on enough mats, things won’t move about nearly as much; they could even stop moving altogether.
  7. Of course, you may just simply construct a platform (or buy one).
  8. Consider if you truly need to drill holes in your floor (and whether you can, if you’re renting!) before you go.
  • Alternative methods I and II (Urethane Adhesive) for fastening stall mats
  • Cutting stall mats for bespoke fittings
  • Completed

How to stop stall mats from sliding around

I’ll be adding these two 4’x6′ stall mats, which you can see in the picture below. Due to the fact that my training area is closer to 13 feet wide and that these two mats only cover 12 feet, there will be a 1-foot gap between the rear mat and the wall that I’ll want to fill. I’m going to cut and utilize that extra piece off to the side there to fill in that gap so it looks a little more professional and uniform in appearance. Allow me to first demonstrate exactly what I’ll be doing to maintain these mats in place so that you can determine whether or not this is a viable option for your gym’s needs.

  • What you’re looking at here are two stall mats that are perfectly flush with one another.
  • The blue screws are 14-inch Tapcon concrete anchors.
  • The sleeve and anchor are seen in the photograph below.
  • Due to the fact that the power rack works as a form of wall, I do not have any of these little anchors in the two mats that sit beneath my power rack (see the image below.) Those carpets are already firmly entrenched in place.
  • You won’t have to worry about kicking 100-pound mats back into position between sets, and you won’t have to worry about dirt, dust, and other debris that blows in from the outside gathering in between the mats.

It seems nicer, keeps the area cleaner, and appears far more professional than simply allowing them to wander anywhere they want to go. If you’re wondering what the steel sleeves are used for, there are a couple very essential reasons why they’re necessary:

  1. They keep the rubber mat and the anchors from coming into touch with each other. Why? Because they’re screws, they’re really pointy. Given enough time, the rubbing of these two would most likely begin to tear the mat and allow for movement, thereby undermining the entire purpose. The sleeves are greater in diameter than the screws, and they also have a smoother surface than the screws. A far more perfect surface for the mat to be permanently pushed against is created as a result of this. With more lateral forces given to the mat (a poor barbell drop, leaping, etc.), the bigger and smoother the hardware, the less likely the mat is to tear and shred. The sleeve actually stops you from over-tightening the anchor and tearing too deeply into the mat. You would have 50 percent less surface area to hold that mat in place if you were to mistakenly tighten the anchor until it was half way through the mat. Furthermore, with such a small amount of rubber beneath the head of the anchor, you’d very certainly wind up pulling it all the way through and ending up with the mat sitting on top of the anchor.

The screw head itself is only a smidgeon under 14 inches in height. In this case, the sleeve I used is 12 inches tall, and the stall mats are exactly 34 inches tall (thick). When the sleeve is jammed into the mat, it penetrates all the way to the floor, leaving 1″ of space for the head of the anchor to pass through. The anchor cannot be screwed in any lower than flush with the top of the mat, and you will receive all of the benefits I discussed above as a result.

Let’s secure some stall mats!

As you can see in the first photo above, I’ve arranged the stall mats in a neat row for you. On the right, you can see the newly installed mat, and on the left, you can see the previously installed mat that has already been anchored. Before I go any further, let me to clarify something. I am neither a professional installation technician or a house foundations expert in any way. Following this tutorial and attempting to complete this installation at your own risk is something you should avoid.

There are alternative options, such as this one.

Yes, there is a rope attached to my ancient drill.

  • Drill (yep, a standard drill is capable of dealing with concrete)
  • 3/16′′ x 312′′ Tapcon drill bit
  • Measuring tape (to ensure that holes are uniformly spaced among mats)
  • Use a sharpie or something to mark your hole
  • It’s unlikely to be black. Vacuum (debris from the hole must be removed)
  • Steel spacers 1/4′′ x 3/8′′ x 1/2′′ (Lowes)
  • Tapcon 1′′ x 13′′ Concrete Anchors
  • 1/4′′ x 3/8′′ x 1/2′′ steel spacers (Lowes)
  • 1/4′′ x 3/8′′ steel spacers (Lowes)
  • 1/4′′ x 1/2′′ steel spacers (Lowes)
  • 1/4′′ x 1/2 3/8′′ drill bit (any variation will do, as long as it is for rubber)
  • In addition, it appears that I have a hair in my tool collection. It wasn’t necessary for me

Step 1 – Line up the Stall Mats

So, obviously, the first step is to arrange everything in the manner in which you desire it, as well as to gather your gear and equipment. When I work with them, I manually lay a few hundred pounds of bumpers on the mats in various locations to help avoid any possibility of their shifting while I am working with them. It appears to be beneficial, but always double sure that your mat is in the proper location before you drill.

Step 2 – Mark and Drill

Make a mark on the mat where you plan to set the anchors so that you can find them later. I simply happened to position mine 4 inches from each edge on the corners, but that’s how I did it. You have complete freedom to do whatever you choose. Please hear me out so that you don’t end up drilling 80 holes in your foundation. Anchors are only required on the exterior margins of the structure. It is not necessary to anchor mats that are surrounded by other mats and/or up against walls since they have nowhere to go and rubber horse stall mats are too heavy to move about vertically.

See also:  How Long Do Horse Races Last? (Correct answer)

As you can see, my initial pass through the mat just left a little mark on the concrete.

Even the tiniest angle will cause the head of the anchor to not seem flush with the matting (this is an OCD issue, and it also creates a tripping danger for the user).

You should avoid drilling deeper than is absolutely necessary since there is no point.

Each time you remove an anchor from a hole, you reduce the holding strength of that particular hole. That’s where the hole is. Isn’t it a tiny little thing?

Step 3 – Drill the Mat and Secure

Following the completion of the hole in the concrete, you must create a larger hole in the mat to accommodate the metal sleeve. I used a 3/8′′ bit because it leaves a hole that is large enough to squeeze the sleeve into, but not so large that it is a tight fit. Before you begin drilling into the mat, double-check that the little pilot hole that has previously been drilled into the mat is still immediately above the hole in the floor, as shown in the image. To put it another way, double-check that nothing has changed.

  1. If it’s a bit off, this is your one and only opportunity to straighten everything up since you may drill the large hole in the mat anyplace you like over the old hole.
  2. There is no way you could have been so far off unless you had allowed that mat to shift while drilling the first hole.
  3. Following the drilling of the huge hole, place the metal sleeve into the hole and press it down until it touches the floor.
  4. All that’s left to do now is tighten the anchor screw all the way down.
  5. Make certain that you are using the appropriate size Philips head driver.
  6. Because these are short screws, you may simply spin them by hand.
  7. Prepare your wrists by doing some wrist exercises.
  8. There will be no movement of the mats, and you will not trip over the anchors, and your garage gym should be looking pretty darn professional right about now.

Alternative Method I

Alternative methods exist, but they all involve the construction of holes in the foundation. That is, you should get some 1′′ runner boards/trim boards (which are really 34″ in length; lumber sizes are ridiculous) and use them to frame the whole area of the stall mats, much like a deadlift platform would be constructed. If your mats come into touch with a wall and/or the elevated ledge that most garages have, you won’t need anything to protect those sides from getting messed up.

As previously said, you’ll still need to secure those boards in some way. I see no reason why you couldn’t use the same anchors that I did, but because I didn’t go this path, you might want to describe your idea to the staff at your local hardware shop and see what they have to say about it.

Alternative Method II

It is possible to get rubber stall mats on the internet that are constructed in a slightly different manner than the entirely flat bottomed mats seen at TSC. In the underside, they have grooves carved into them, which are used to hold the mats together when they are adhered to the ground with a commercial urethane flooring glue. I have virtually no knowledge of how this procedure works. I only wanted you to be aware that it exists. If this is something that interests you, you will need to put your Google talents to use because I have no intention of addressing this strategy.

Cutting Stall Mats for Custom Fits

In a previous post, I said that once I had those two new mats in place, there would still be a little gap between the mats and the wall that needed to be closed, and you can clearly see that gap in the image above. To my advantage, I have a scrap mat that I can cut up to fill in the blanks, and I’ll show you how I go about doing so. The first and most apparent step is to take accurate measurements of the space you intend to decorate. I measure the distance from the mat to the wall on both sides of the mat since there is a probability that they will be somewhat different from one another in the future (stall mats are generally cut pretty well, but line enough of them up and small imperfections become larger imperfections).

  • This will serve as a cutting guide for me.
  • In other words, if I had only taken one measurement someplace, the cut piece would not have fit very well, if it would have fit at all.
  • For cutting mats, I use a $40 jigsaw that I purchased on eBay.
  • Because my line (which is difficult to see in this photo, I apologize) goes along with the distance between my boards, I’ve lined it up as follows.
  • Obviously, cutting a mat of this size gets more complex and time-consuming, but as you can see, I’ve dealt with that and am now down to a manageable 4’6″ x 6’6″.
  • When it comes to this, I’ve learnt to take my time.
  • If you’re OCD like me, I guarantee that your eye will pick up on even the smallest bends in your cut once you’ve laid the mat down on the ground, so go slowly and steadily throughout the process.

Fortunately, you can see that the line is straight, and it should fit quite neatly against the laser-cut edge of the full-size mat against which it will be placed.

Some thoughts…

If you have a table saw with a large enough cutting capacity and a companion to assist you in holding the mat, I can see how this may be a more efficient method of making extremely straight cuts in these mats. I’m afraid I don’t have either =( I’m not kidding, but I don’t have access to a table saw. In other cases, folks even use tool knives to cut stall mats, which is something I’ve recently started doing myself. You will need a true utility knife, though, with a razor-sharp blade to complete the task.

When cutting long, straight lines, I’ve found that using painters tape to mark your cut and tracking along the edge of that tape gently on the first pass is the most efficient method.

The Finished Product

Boom! There you have it, my sliced piece. It’s a perfect fit! Take a look at this larger image of my gym after the flooring has been completed and fastened. The stall mats are unable to be moved any more. There will be no more kicking! So, that’s it. You’re done. I hope this has been of use to at least one person. I also hope I haven’t missed anything important! But, hey, feel free to ask questions in the comments section. Please share me with you, and thank you.

From The Ground Up: Stall Flooring and Mats – The Horse

Your horse spends the most of the day and night on his feet. He wants to be dry and comfortable, and he prefers his feet to be at normal temperature. He wants to be able to stand on a surface that is both durable and does not smell terrible. As long as you pay attention to your horse’s needs, you will want to support his overall health from the ground up. Because the animal is confined in a stall for 23 hours every day, he is in continual touch with the stall floor. The more that the stall floor conforms to equine tastes, the more comfortable your horse will be.

  • Consider the negative consequences of having a floor installed.
  • A cool floor transfers heat away from the limbs and away from the body.
  • When your horse lies down or gets up on a hard, unyielding surface, it can aggravate arthritic joints and inflict scratches on his limbs as a result.
  • (For further information on bedding options, see the Equinomics section in t.)

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Avoid Deterioration of Horse Stall Mats

Question: I have several stalls that were professionally matted over crushed rock around 20 years ago, as well as those that were professionally matted over crushed rock approximately three years ago. The older ones are starting to get bedding stuffed underneath them, causing the mats to rise and the corners to curl. Is there anything I can do to get the mats to work again? They were 3/4″ and 1″ thick mats, respectively. This is something I’d like to avoid happening in the newer stall mats as well.

Answer: First and foremost, it is encouraging to observe that you are carrying out various tasks in an appropriate manner.

It appears that you have gotten 20 years of usage out of your original installation, which is rather impressive, however we can understand why the curling and heaving of the mat is reducing its value at this point.

Even if you remove the shavings, it is possible that they will continue to do so, and you will need to replace them.

  • Continue to choose a professional installation service since they can get the mats to fit the tightest to each other and the wall. Make sure you choose a rubber mat from a renowned big brand, as not all rubber mats are created equal. Some are composed of lower-quality materials that are more prone to curling than others. Before purchasing a product via a distributor, we like to speak directly with the manufacturer to discuss any queries we may have. These individuals may be a goldmine of information
  • You might try with various forms of approach with them. Very thin shavings are more likely to be able to pass through and beneath the mats than larger shavings. Check to see that the mat is properly put beneath the door frame. After a while, horses will paw at the door area and begin to raise the mat in that region. Never go thinner than 3 inches in thickness.

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Stall Accessories, Please

We all require something from time to time, and we all desire something from time to time. And there are instances when what we require and desire are the same thing. As part of this essay, we’ll look at some of the stall decorations that are both attractive to your horse and functional for you.

Installing Horse Stall Mats

Installing Rubber Stall Mats in Your Horse Stalls? Here’s What You Need to Know. What You Should Know About Preparing Your Stall by Tonia Frenzel, Advertising/Marketing Coordinator at Humane Society International The decision to utilize Rubber Stall Mats in your horse stalls was an excellent one on your part, and you should be pleased with your decision. Rubber Stall Mats help you save money on bedding by reducing the amount of time you spend cleaning your stalls, and they also keep your horses safe and happy.

If you do not have concrete, asphalt, or wood, then the preparation of the sub-surface is the most crucial component in having a safe, low-maintenance, and trouble-free stall installation.

Crushed fines can be used as a replacement to concrete, asphalt, or wood.

These are simple to work with, compress well, provide good drainage, and hold up well in freezing and thawing situations, among other characteristics.

The first thing you should do is remove any old bedding from the stall surface that already there.

As soon as you have filled the stall foundation, use a 3/4-inch drill bit “In order to check that the stall is at the proper level, use a piece of board (or whatever the mat thickness is).

Water can be used to saturate the material, which will assist in the compaction process.

Now that the subsurface has been leveled and compacted, allow it to dry completely before proceeding with the installation of the mats.

However, if you do not have concrete or asphalt, straight edge mats may move and the horse may dig holes in the ground as a result.

When working with limestone or granite particles as a subsurface, interlocking mats are the most effective option to consider.

Start at one corner of the stall and put together the parts like a puzzle; after the interlock is activated, you may walk over the pieces to secure them in place as they become more secure.

When all of the mats are interlaced together, it creates a solid floor that will not shift or separate, and the interlocking seams will not come apart.

With less time spent cleaning stalls, you will have more time to spend enjoying your horse.

We are the inventors of LOKTUFF interlocking flooring, and we supply matting solutions for stalls, aisle ways, wash bays, Walker floors, trailer floors, foaling stalls, and many more applications.

by Donna Wilkinson, Vice President of Humane Society International The photographs that appear in this post were shot by one of our delighted clients when he was prepping the subsurface and installing the mats on his property.

See our product advertisement on Infohorse.com underFootings, or fill out the form below to get in touch with us. Moore St, Baraboo, WI 53913 Phone: 800-369-6263 Fax: 608-356-8338 Web site: Moore St, Baraboo, WI 53913

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