- A: To make a horse eye, you need to take a piece of paper and draw two circles on it. Then, you need to cut out the middle of the circle. Then, you need to fold the paper in half and put glue on one side of the paper.
How do you do the hobby eye on a horse?
How to make eyes for your hobby horse
- Draw the shape of an eye on a piece of black felt and cut it out.
- Cut out two slightly smaller eye shapes in white felt.
- Cut out two smaller circles in black felt.
- Glue both eyes to the hobby horse with a hot glue gun.
- Cut out two crescent shapes for each eye from felt.
What are horse eye covers for?
A fly mask or fly cap is a mask used on horses to cover the eyes, jaw, and sometimes the ears and muzzle to protect from flies. Fly and mosquito protection is an important part of overall horse care, as biting insects are both a source of irritation and also may transmit disease.
Do horses ears?
EARS GIVE YOU CLUES Horses have large ears that can twist almost all the way around. The ears will tell you the direction of the horse’s attention. They can listen to two directions at the same time. Their hearing is very sensitive.
What kind of paint can I use on a horse?
What paint is safe to use on horses? Non-toxic paint and glitter are the safest to use on your horse. Tempera, washable paint is most gentle and washes off fairly easy.
How to Build a Horse Fence (Step-by-Step Guide + Tips)
Horse fences should be thoroughly planned and designed before construction can commence. The benefit of installing a horse fence is that it provides assurance that your horses will be protected from unwanted visitors. In addition, a well-constructed horse fence enhances the aesthetics of a horse residence. There are some considerations to make when constructing the horse fence. The purpose of a fence is to keep your horses secure from harm. However, if you are running a business, you must examine the value and attractiveness of your product or service.
That does not imply that you will proceed with the construction of a horse fence without taking the cost into consideration.
Horse fences are available in a variety of styles.
You may pick from a variety of materials for your basic fence including rail, galvanized and vinyl coated wire, wood, and electric, or you can mix several of these materials.
Now, let’s take a look at how this project should be carried out, from preparation to planning to construction to set-up and every element associated with horse fence.
In order to build a building, you must first plan and have a clear vision of how and where you want it to be constructed. You can use the following considerations to assist you in making your decision:
The Ideal Gate
Image courtesy of cdodt and Pixabay When designing a horse fence, keep in mind that different types of fences will be installed for a variety of reasons. Our fences will be used for a variety of purposes, such as enclosing pastures, riding areas, exercise paddocks, and property lines. The appearance, efficacy, and method of installation will all be influenced by the geography of your property. Paddock layouts must be designed specifically to facilitate the movement of pastures, the production of hay, and the grazing of livestock.
- It is necessary to take into account the different types of horse groupings.
- Because they are not cared for in the same way as other animals, they will have a separate type of fencing installed around them.
- Don’t leave any gaps or spaces since the horses might get their feet or heads caught in them.
- The barrier will remain in place for a long period if a well-thought-out plan is implemented.
In addition, there will be a reduction in the amount of time required to work at the horse farm. That will make it easier for those who are employed to work efficiently and successfully with the least amount of effort.
How to Choose Posts
Image courtesy of neilbude and Pixabay. The most important components of a horse fence are the posts. They are the most visible members of the team, thus they should be carefully chosen. However, if we want our fence to survive for a long time, this is a procedure that must be carried out properly. As a result, while constructing the horse fence, driven posts are preferred over other types of posts. This is due to the fact that they do not require concrete or the drilling of holes. Ideally, wood posts should be used, albeit they should be treated because they are susceptible to termites and ants.
Such positions, on the other hand, are long-lasting, providing you with service for more than 20 years.
Other forms of fences, on the other hand, will require you to measure a significant distance between the posts.
Gate Design and Location
A good gate should be well-designed, sturdy, and visually appealing. It is not necessary for the gate to match the horse fence in appearance. Wood posts and metal tubes are required for the construction of a gate. Other building materials, such as fasters, braces, and other similar items, can be considered. Gates, like the horse fence, should be built to a high standard. As previously said, horses may attempt to jump over the fence, which may result in an accident. Install gates that open and close with a swinging motion to allow horses to pass more freely.
Avoid building at intersections because horses can become entangled in the construction.
Image courtesy of AlkeMade and Pixabay.
Let’s take a look at some of the procedures that you may take to construct a basic horse fence and gate. The fence is composed of wood, and it is one of the most straightforward buildings that you may build on your own.
Things to Consider
Before putting the plan into action and ordering the supplies, you should take the following factors into consideration:
- The style of fence you want to build
- The size of the fence
- What was the height of the fence? the enclosure’s four corners
- The location of the barrier in relation to the number of lanes and roads that are available
- The materials that will be utilized
- Lumber for the posts and boards that is 8-9 feet in length (treated)
- Lumber for the boards that is 6-8 feet in length (treated)
- Nails, shovel, spirit level, stakes and strings, hammer, tape measure, cement, gravel
Steps to Follow When Making a Horse Fence
Image courtesy of StockSnap and Pixabay.
The first step is to take accurate measurements of the space. Measure the area where you wish to put your fence with the help of your tape measure. Keep in mind that the fence height is important since it must be able to fit all horses, regardless of their size, in the back of your mind. The space between the posts should be kept to a bare minimum to avoid horses from becoming entangled. It may be pricey in the short term, but it will be effective in the long run. The distance between the posts should be at least 2 m, and the height of the posts should be 1.5 m at the most.
Then, using twine, measure the height of the post in order to decide what height you should choose.
A board cut can then be used to measure the distance between each of the posts after this has been completed.
You can arrange the boards in a different way on either side of the center to guarantee that they meet in the center.
To achieve good outcomes, alternate the boards on a regular basis. The advantage of using this approach is that you don’t have to trim the longboards down to their proper length. Related Article: Which Of These Horse Fencing Types Is The Most Effective? (ProsCons)
2.Installing the Posts
A shovel will be required for the installation of your post. The kind of soil to be used determines the size of the holes that must be excavated. If the soil is clay, the hole should be 3 feet deep; if the soil is sandy, the hole should be 4 feet deep. Because of the gravel footing, you need allow 6 inches between the holes. You are now free to begin putting up your posts. Consider adding a six-inch layer of gravel at the bottom of each hole. The purpose of doing so is to keep the post from decaying since the water will drain properly.
- Continue reading the rest of the post while following the same method as you did before.
- To do this, use the string and make certain that it is properly stretched from the first to the last pole.
- If you have any that are very high, you should dig the hole even deeper.
- You have the option of putting some bricks around the sides of the hole.
- Once all of the poles are securely in place, it is time to start adding dirt.
- It is possible to make your posts studier by mixing in cement or concrete.
Image courtesy of Rene Schaubhut and Pixabay.com This is the final phase in the process of putting up your horse fence. After all of the posts have been put, the following step is to nail them together. Make use of your harmer and begin nailing the cross planks together. When measuring the distance between the boards, a tape measure is helpful in getting the proper dimensions. When you first begin nailing, you may use an aspirit level to ensure that the boards are in a straight line before proceeding.
The nailing should be tight enough to prevent a substandard job from being done.
Steps to Follow When Making a Gate
Making a horse gate is simple if you follow the procedures outlined below.
Materials Needed for a Wooden Gate
Two poles that have been treated are required. They should be 2.4 meters in length and 1.6 meters above the ground to be effective. If your horses are tall, you may raise the length and height of the fence to 3.7 meters long and 2.4 meters above ground.
2.Dig the Holes
Image courtesy of claritynd and Pixabay. Two holes should be dug for your treated gate poles. This means that they must be placed on the area that was left after you finished constructing the barrier. Plant your poles first, and then pour the concrete around them. Please make certain that you have enough to make the poles more sturdy.
3.Build Your Wooden Gate
Image courtesy of stux and Pixabay. The horizontal bars and vertical beams that make up your wooden gate should be spaced evenly apart. Of course, the quantity you choose should be influenced by the overall appearance you desire for your gate. However, in a normal circumstance, six horizontal bars and two vertical beams are the most appropriate configuration. The height of your horse’s gate should be high enough to reach the horse’s neckline.
However, if you discover that your horses enjoy jumping about, you may raise the gate taller to accommodate them. In addition, the nails and screws should be properly fastened in order to prevent the horses from tearing through the gate.
4.Attach Your Gate
Take the gate that you’ve created and put it to the post using the screws you’ve provided. Make use of door hinges and drill the screws through them to provide the structure a solid foundation. Continue to the other post and check to see that they are properly fitted. The ideal gate should be able to open and close both ways.
5.Attach a Rope
At this point, you may add a latch or a rope to the gate to make opening and shutting it more convenient. If you are concerned that your horse will be able to open the gate, you can use a chain. However, if the rope or lock is correctly attached, there is no reason to be concerned.
Tips for Maintaining a Horse Fence
Because of the high cost of wood, constructing a horse fence is not a cheap endeavor. This need regular maintenance in order to prevent incurring further repair expenditures. Here are some suggestions for routine maintenance:
- Horses enjoy chewing on wood because they find it to be delicious. Replace your wood as soon as you see that it has been chewed to avoid this situation. As a result, they will be less likely to eat them further. Nails that have popped out should be screwed back in. Extra nails can also be used to increase the stability of the structure. It is not always necessary to wait until the nails have dropped before replacing them. To keep ants and termites away from the wood, coat it with paint. Choose to paint every two years or whenever you see that they are starting to fade. When it comes to mending your horse fence, avoid using outdated materials. They are already worn out and will not be able to withstand much more use. They will, on the other hand, provide you more employment by mending things on a regular basis.
The process of constructing a horse fence is not complicated. You are not required to use wood for the fence; instead, you can use other materials. We’ve spoken about how to make a horse fence out of wood, and we’ve gone over all of the stages you need to do to get good results. Meanwhile, the key to building a long-lasting horse fence is to take the necessary precautions. Avoid using outdated materials for construction, and while anchoring the posts to the ground, be sure to tighten the nails.
Featured Image courtesy of David Wagner and Pixabay.
Common Sense Fencing for Horses
Equine farm fencing is a necessary and expensive component of every horse operation. Trying to save money on fence might result in unsafe or insecure enclosures, which can eventually cause damage to your horses. Keeping horses and fencing them may be a great difficulty because of their usual activity. Here are some pointers and concerns to keep in mind while building fence on a horse ranch.
Materials and Installation
In any case, fence must be strong and clearly visible regardless of the material used. Poles, pipe, boards, plastic, or wire fencing, as well as a mix of these materials, can be used to create fencing. In the event that horses escape from the property, it is best to erect high-quality perimeter fence around the whole property. Any wire fence, whether smooth or barbed, should be avoided. Horses get injured by barbed wire. Smooth wire or wire that has been plastic coated should be used for electric fences.
- Make certain that the system (charger) you choose is powerful enough to power your fence design.
- The majority of electric charges are equipped with a light that illuminates when there is a breach in the fence or when the circuit is not complete.
- All fences should be checked on a regular basis, and wire fences should be kept taut.
- Whatever sort of fence you choose, be certain that it is correctly placed before using it.
- The boards, pipes, or wire in your fence will be pushed against the posts rather than away from them if horses lean on it.
- Watch out for loose boards, nails, and any other protrusion that might cause injury at any time of day or night.
- Temporary electric fence is less expensive and more portable in the event that fields need to be enlarged.
Metal T-posts (metal stake posts) should not be used because horses can impale themselves on a metal T-post. If you do decide to utilize T-posts, make sure you cover the tops of them with plastic coverings to keep children and pets safe.
Is your fence visible from the road? Color does not have a significant role in horse sight; but, brightness and contrast do play a role. Yellow tape and wire tend to mix in with green backdrops, which is unfortunate. When it comes to visibility, where you set your fence has a significant impact on how apparent it is to your horses. It’s important to remember that when galloping, horses tend to stare to the horizon since their binocular field of vision (which uses both eyes for higher sharpness) is in front of their faces.
It is possible that the horse will not notice the barrier until he has passed over it.
Due to the fact that the horse’s eyes are drawn to movement, you may increase the visibility of a wire fence by putting strips of fabric or plastic along the wire.
Your fence should be installed at a height that is equivalent to the height of your horse’s eyes while he is standing erect, ideally five feet or higher. In the case of athletic jumper horses, it could be a good idea to make the fence taller. Draft horses require higher fencing, although miniatures and ponies may be contained inside lower fences. Plan your fencing so that it can handle the tallest horse you have on your property. It is recommended that stallions be contained in fence no shorter than 6 feet.
Having a fence with a high clearance allows horses to graze beneath the fence, which may allow a foal or pony to escape, as well as allowing dogs, wildlife, and children to easily enter and exit.
The design of your gates, as well as their placement, is just as significant as the type of fencing you employ. Place your gates in such a way that horses do not become crowded when being led in or out; avoid placing them in tight corners. Make the gate opening big enough to allow agricultural equipment to pass through to do pasture maintenance. If you have your own equipment, find out how wide the entrance to the pasture is before you begin. Wide gates (at least 12 feet in width) are recommended if you want to engage outside labor to do pasture management (mowing, liming, fertilizing, spraying, and reseeding).
- If you have horses who paw at the gate or stand on the bottom bar when they are impatient to be fed or brought inside, no-climb gates may be a good option for you.
- Considerations Regarding Horse Behaviour When horses assault fences, it is mainly due to social forces within the herd.
- If your horses are housed in a paddock with a loafing shed, it is critical that both the shelter and the paddock have adequate space to accommodate the number of horses that will be there.
- Dominant horses may bite and attack horses who are lower on the pecking order in the pecking order hierarchy.
- If you have large groups of horses sharing a fence line, double fencing is the most effective but most expensive type of fence to use (horses cannot reach each other with a space between).
Weanlings and yearlings are known for being lively and rowdy, and they must be housed in the safest, most secure enclosures possible.
Keep these suggestions in mind when you plan the fence for your farm or as you inspect the fencing you already have. Fencing takes careful planning and installation, and it may be necessary to hire a professional to ensure that it is safe and dependable. Fence Planning for Horses is a comprehensive handbook about fencing on horse farms that may be found online.
Horse Fence Building, Fencing Design, and Fence Safety Tips
Chris Churchill, Five Star Ranch Staff Writer, contributed to this article. Fences that are well-maintained make for nice neighbors. Even though the adage is derived from Robert Frost’s poem Mending Wall, it is sound advise for anybody who has horses or other livestock. Good fences keep horses safely contained, keep stray dogs and other unwanted visitors out of your pasture, facilitate pasture rotation, reduce your liabilities, and help maintain good neighbor relations by preventing your livestock from wandering into your neighbor’s garden.
Over the years, there has been a significant increase in the number of horse fence alternatives available.
How to Select Safe Horse Fence
Because there are so many different types and alternatives for horse fence, it is important to complete your research before beginning your fencing project. The most important consideration in your decision process is to choose a product that is safe, meets your budget, and requires little maintenance. Let’s take a look at some of the factors to consider while choosing a fence.
Safe Horse Fencing “Gives” Upon Impact
A wise old horse expert once told me that the best way to determine the worth of a fence is for a horse to run into it. I believe him completely. When a horse unintentionally runs into a fence that has some elasticity (“give,” in horseman’s parlance), it can reduce the severity of the damage. In situations when you have younger, more lively horses or a narrow space where the chance of horse-fence contact increases, using a fence that “gives” becomes more vital to consider.
Good Horse Fence is Highly Visible
If a horse notices a fence, it will almost always avoid running into it. It is possible to improve the visibility of an existing fence if it is not highly apparent at the time of installation. Several folks use smooth wire to cross fence their pastures, or they put up temporary fence to separate off a portion of their pasture for rotation. The use of flagging tape to attach to the smooth wire significantly improves the visibility of the fence. Additionally, many horse owners may add a wood rail to the top of their wire mesh fences in order to maximize visibility of their property.
Good Horse Fences Doesn’t Catch Up A Horse
A good fence should be free of anything that might grab a horse’s hooves. If you’re going to utilize a wire mesh fence, make sure it has small spaces – less than 3 inches across, at the most. When my neighbor contacted me to tell me that they had just had to cut my horse’s foot out of a wire mesh fence that had numerous gaps, which I had acquired from the previous owner, it was one of the most memorable phone calls I had received. It was this barrier that divided my pasture from his garden, which he said had enticing fragrances.
However, my neighbor was a fan of my horses (those pony rides for his granddaughters had paid off), and he acted quickly to rescue my horse from his shackles.
Triangular corner supports, which are another thing that horses have been known to get entangled in, are another source of trouble.
With the triangle supports, horses may get their heads hooked in the supports, causing them to become immobilized.
When the horse is unable to do so, it panics and forcefully pulls back, injuring or cutting itself in the process. In order to avoid this, if you want to utilize the triangle supports in corners, it is a good idea to fence off the area where the horse will be.
Avoid creating trap points when you’re designing your fence layout.
It’s important to remember that horses have a pecking order and like demonstrating their authority. The arrangement of your fence, as well as the placement of gates, water troughs, and feeding spots, must be carefully considered if you have more than one horse in a given area. It is best not to place water troughs in a corner where a bully may easily prevent other horses from getting to the water they need. Also, avoid placing the gate in a secluded area. Horses have a tendency to congregate near gates, and a corner gate may be quite dangerous for both you and your animals.
Rounded Corners Make For Safer Pastures
Another trap point that is easy to overlook is the presence of sharp edges. The horse pasture would not have square corners in an ideal world, and neither would your home. Why? Horses that are dominant and aggressive might trap a horse in a corner and hurt it. Round corners are more difficult to build, but they are more secure if you have a mixed herd of cattle. Current fence with square corners can be “rounded” by installing a fence that chops off the corner of the existing fence. This may take up a small amount of space, but it may prevent a horse from becoming cornered in a corner by a bully in the future.
It’s as simple as that.
The horses won’t be able to chew it down or “ring” the bark, and in a few years, you’ll have a beautiful shade tree on your property.
Barbed Wire Is NOT Horse Fence
Horse fences made of barbed wire, contrary to what you may have seen in movies, are not safe. You don’t have to search very far to locate horses who have been severely disfigured or wounded after coming into contact with barbed wire. It may be inexpensive in the short term, but it will cost you much in vet fees and heartache in the long run.
Cattle Guards are NOT Safe Horse Guards
A cow guard is used to keep livestock under control. It is not recommended for use with horses. I am aware of more than one horse that has been buried as a result of a broken leg sustained while attempting to pass a livestock gate. If you don’t want to get out of your vehicle to open a gate, consider installing an electronic gate. It is not necessary to install a livestock guard.
A Few More Thoughts on Horse Fencing
In the absence of a universally effective fence, several styles are commonly employed in various locations, depending on the purpose of use and number of horses present. The better the fence you require, the smaller the area you are enclosing, because the fence will be checked more frequently as the area gets smaller. You may want to consider installing an additional safe and secure fence around gates, around the barn, or anyplace else horses prefer to congregate in order to keep them safe. Ensure that the fencing is high and visible enough to dissuade a horse from passing through.
- I’ve seen livestock held in place by a hot wire that was two feet above the ground.
- Take into consideration the horse’s activity level as well as the kind of horses you intend to retain.
- Large draft breeds can easily get through a board fence that is not strong enough.
- Take into consideration the surrounding environment of your institution.
- or a mix of the two (something like wood and hot wire).
- Preparation will make you and your horses safer, as will the others around you.
- Plan to inspect your fence on a regular basis, regardless of the kind you choose.
No fence is fully maintenance-free, and even the most well-maintained fences can be damaged by acts of God. Check your horse’s fences on a frequent basis for his safety. Horse Fence BooksBelow are some excellent books that will assist you in the construction of your horse fence.
Housing for Horses
Which sort of horse housing is most appropriate for your horse? Horse housing can be either indoors or outdoors, or it can be a combination of the two types. Rather than the breed of horse, the style of housing will be governed by the way the horse is used on a day-to-day basis or the preferences of the owner. Unless there is sufficient pasture to allow horses to roam freely at all times, housing must be designed to restrict access to pasture. All horses should be kept indoors or under cover when the weather is bad.
The most important consideration to make is one’s own personal safety.
Apart from the obvious considerations of location and climate (including zoning), water (including irrigation), ventilation, feed storage (including tack storage), and financial expenses From this list, it is clear that there are several aspects to consider before a horse even enters a barn.
Best Management Practices
A horse’s health is dependent on his or her ability to stay in a decent stable. The design and management of a horse barn can have a direct impact on the health of the animals. A badly built horse barn might put the horse’s respiratory system at danger of becoming ill. Poorly built barns can raise the chance of contracting various illnesses, as well as the possibility of suffering direct physical injuries. Aside from problems with the barns themselves, issues with the design and placement of supplementary structures, such as feed-storage spaces, may also develop.
Options for Housing your Horse
When it comes to horses who are ridden or utilized every day, indoor housing is the best option for them during the winter months. Individual box stalls have traditionally been used, and this method necessitates a significant amount of daily effort for manure disposal due to the nature of the arrangement. Single-story barns are the most cost-effective alternative since they are easier to construct and maintain. If you want to store hay in a separate barn, you should consult with your local fire department for guidance on building standards and suggestions on where to construct fire barriers.
- A tiny horse stable measuring 6′ x 8′
- Ponies and tiny horses weighing less than 900 pounds are housed in 10′ by 10′ stables. Nonetheless, if you have the space, you might want to consider making the stalls 10′ x 12′ or 12′ x 12′ in order to make the barn more adaptable and more desirable to future owners who may have larger horses. Riding horses weighing between 900 and 1100 pounds in a stall of 12′ × 12′, which is the industry norm
- A tiny draft – 12′ x 14′ to 14′ x 14′
- AWarmbloodor a small draft
- A largedraft horse with a stall of 16’x16′
- If the horse is that large, the foaling stall should be at least double the size of a single stall for that horse.
Standing stalls are where the horse is tied forward with a chain or rope. Horses can also stand loose with two chains across the open end. Many draft horses are kept in standing stalls. They are not as comfortable for the horse since they are limited in movement. Open-sided or free-stall housing is good to use when you want to maintain horses in the open-air while providing protection from inclement weather. This type of system is used to house a group or horses that get along well with each other.
Run-in sheds are often used. Open shed rows are similar to box stalls in a row but the doors are open to the outdoors. Most doors are Dutch Doors, split to allow the top half to be left open for ventilation purposes. This works best in mild climates.
Buildings constructed outside have the benefit of having reduced construction costs, as well as requiring less effort when it comes to cleaning the structures. When it comes to outside horse housing, you may choose between a three-sided building and a more sophisticated open barn. You may acquire a skid steer to clean the barn, reducing the need for a wheel barrow and a manure fork in the process. Remember to feed (hay) horses at least 150 meters away from the barn to reduce manure buildup in the barn and since horses will fight less over feed in an open area than they will in a confined location such as a barn, this is an excellent practice.
A well-lit barn is more comfortable to work in, and you will notice that horse flies will concentrate in less numbers. Natural (and free) light may be obtained through windows and skylights, but it is important to ensure that they do not allow in excessive summer heat. If at all feasible, provide lighting in each stall. It is not recommended to install any type of lighting that has exposed components.
The fencing you select should be both safe and sufficient. All horses should be permitted to have as much outdoor, free exercise as they can get away with. The fencing should be strong, especially when the horses lean against it or brush against it, to prevent injuries. Wood fence is the most visually beautiful, but it is also the most expensive and requires the most upkeep. Vinyl chloride (PVC) fencing is becoming increasingly popular since it provides the appearance of a wooden fence without the need for upkeep and is less expensive to install.
High tensile fence is a cost-effective solution for perimeter fencing, however it is not suggested for line fences.
If the horse becomes entangled in the wire, he or she may sustain significant harm.
The bottom rail should be positioned at an acceptable height for foals and/or miniature horses, as well as certain ponies, in order to deter smaller or curious animals from rolling or becoming entangled below the bottom rail.
Keep in mind that your horse barn design should be safe, functional, visually beautiful, pleasant, and an efficient space for both horses and people to live and operate. When you are constructing or renovating a horse barn, keep the following considerations in mind. You’ll save time, money, and work while transforming your barn into a welcoming environment for both you and your horse.
Additional Information on Horse Housing
Housing Recommendations.pdf is a PDF document. A team led by Stephen Herbert, Masoud Hashemi, Carrie Chickering-Sears, and Sarah Weis worked together to develop the factsheets in this series. Other contributors were Ken Miller, Jacqui Carlevale, Katie Campbell-Nelson, and Zack Zenk.
This publication has been made possible in part by a grant from the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources to the Massachusetts Farm Bureau Federation, Inc., as well as a grant from the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection’s s319 Program.
Prevent Horse Fence Failure
The last 20 or so years have seen me tour the world, conducting seminars on fence design and advising horse and cow owners as well as zookeepers on the most effective ways to keep their animals safely contained. My authority allows me to instruct you on how to construct the most high-tech, complicated and expensive horse fence possible–but I’m not going to advise you how to do it. This is because, as a long-time horseman, I also understand that the money you pay for a fence has nothing to do with how effectively it will protect your horses.
Here are eight things you can do to ensure that your horse is safely contained within your fences, no matter what sort of fencing you have in place.
1. Build your fences to standard specifications.
Even the most costly fence materials will be rendered ineffective if they are not properly installed. People who purchase prefabricated fence may find themselves in difficulty if they cut corners on materials or fail to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. It’s possible that anything less than six strands of polycoated wire will put your horses’ safety at danger. When you find yourself in court because of a loose horse, failing to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations might be detrimental to your case.
2. Secure the perimeter.
The most escape-proof homes feature an unbroken barrier of fences and gates that surrounds the whole property, leaving no open spots where horses may flee. One of the most important components of this controlled-perimeter method is the presence of gates at each entry. For added convenience, it is feasible to install reasonably priced automated gates that open and close on their own, much like a garage door, as needed. Don’t forget to lock off trailheads and trailhead entrances as well. An “internal perimeter,” which is a secondary fence that encircle the barn and any openings to horsekeeping areas, can provide a comparable level of safety by ensuring that a horse escaping from a stall or pasture gate faces a second obstacle on his journey to freedom (see illustration).
(Note: Cattle guards may appear to be a tempting solution, but they should be avoided for the sake of safety.
3. Keep gates closed.
When I was growing up, we had a rule that said, “Leave any gate you use exactly as you found it.” It was something like that. The unfortunate reality is that hardly everyone these days recognizes the significance of that guideline. True or not, most horses are able to escape by simply stepping through an open gate or stall door that has been left unlocked. It should become a habit to double-check all gates and doors before you exit a barn or field. As a precaution, place a sign on each gate reminding people to close it.
Also keep in mind that intelligent, bored horses can work out even the most basic locks.
Make use of horseproof hardware, or place an overhanging ledge over the mechanism to keep inquisitive lips away from the mechanism. If a 2-year-old toddler can open a latch, there’s a good likelihood that a horse can, as well.
4. Reduce temptation.
Some horses are drawn to better pastures by the prospect of grazing on them. Potential wanderers can be deterred from entering your property by providing abundant pasture on your side of the fence, or by providing high-quality hay in the event that pasture is scarce. It is also crucial to adhere to a regular eating schedule. When dinner is an hour late, your horse may decide to go out and get it on his own initiative. In addition, I’ve discovered from personal experience that a horse who leans over or through a fence may come to despise the fence.
When a herd is constantly in turmoil, the fence’s integrity might be put to the test as lower-ranking horses strive to escape bullies.
5. Respect herd dynamics.
When it comes to bringing a new horse to your herd, proceed with caution. The members of a raucous gang can soon overrun a newbie, dragging him through fences until the pecking order is reinstated. Try putting a new horse out with only one partner to begin with, and then gradually add more horses to the herd, keeping an eye out for difficulty along the way. Your new horse’s outing should be limited to daylight hours at first, so that he can clearly see fences and hazards in his new surroundings.
Similarly, if you need to withdraw a horse from the herd (for example, due to an injury), make certain that the fence around the animal’s new enclosure is safe.
In the event that it is not feasible to relocate the horse with a friend, keep a watch on him to ensure that he does not attempt to pass through the fence.
6. Beware of roaming dogs.
I was called as an expert witness in two court instances involving horse escapes that were most likely caused by bands of dogs moving through the nighttime countryside. The horses were most likely frightened by the dogs, who caused them to flee through the fences in the dark. This happens a lot more often than people realize: your own dog may be pursuing your horses without your awareness, and you wouldn’t even know it. Please call your local animal control agency as soon as possible if you notice a stray dog or dogs on your property, even if it is just to make a record of the situation.
Unwanted dogs are taken seriously by animal control authorities because they pose a threat to both people and cattle.
Dogs will be discouraged from accessing paddocks if electrified wire is put 6 to 8 inches above the ground on perimeter fences.
7. Keep an eye on the weather.
Stormy, windy circumstances can cause horses to become unsettled, especially those that are unfamiliar with their surroundings, and they are more prone to seek safety elsewhere. Knowing that a storm is approaching, it may be prudent to bring agitated horses into the barn before the storm arrives. Inspect your fences immediately following a storm to ensure that they are in excellent working order. Fallen trees can completely demolish a barrier, creating an escape route before you ever realize what has happened.
If you have an electric fence, make sure to inspect it after a rainstorm because lightning is a common cause of fence-charger failure. For obvious reasons, it is not a good idea to try to bring in horses or inspect an electric fence during a thunderstorm.
8. Walk your fence line.
Finally, one of the most important methods to ensure that fences are secure is to inspect them on a regular basis for any weak points or problems. Inspect your fence line at least twice a month, preferably on foot and from the ground up, and make note of any problems. It doesn’t take long for a horse to notice and take advantage of such chances as rotted boards, unsecured poles, and dead cables. Furthermore, from a legal sense, keeping your fences in a state of constant deterioration may be construed as negligent behavior.
- If you have electric fences, check them frequently using a fence tester to ensure that they are constantly “hot.” It simply costs around 15 cents a month to maintain an electric fence, and trust me when I say that your horses can detect if the fence is turned on or off.
- As members of a community, we must avoid endangering the safety of our neighbors.
- Purchasing the most up-to-date, most costly fence isn’t enough–and may even provide the illusion of increased protection.
- For the sake of everyone’s well-being, maintain your fences with the same dedication and attention to detail as you do your horses–with an eye toward future difficulties.
- He began his career in the fencing sector with a big, worldwide electric-fence firm after graduating from Texas A M University with a degree in agricultural journalism.
- In addition, he has been summoned as an expert witness in a number of court cases regarding fences and runaway horses, among other things.
- Don’t let this opportunity pass you by!
- If you are not currently getting the EQUUS newsletter, you can join up by clicking here.
15 Mistakes You’re Making with Your Electric Horse Fence
The ability to read a fence is essential. The ElectroBraid® fence is an excellent solution for horse safety, but it is easy to make mistakes that result in an accident with the fence.
In the event that you are committing any of the following 15 blunders on your horse ranch, you may be placing your horses at danger of harm without even realizing it.
Mistake 1: Not introducing your horse to his new pasture.
It is possible that your horse will become confused about his limits if you do not expose him to his new pasture once your fence has been constructed. A horse may become disoriented when confronted with a new environment or newly established limits. Turn off the electricity to your energizer before introducing your horse, and then begin guiding him around the perimeter of the property. You may re-energize your fence once he has been exposed to the region and has become comfortable with his new surroundings.
Mistake 2: Constructing your electric horse fence below the minimum required height.
In order to adequately confine horses in field fencing, horse fence should be at least 5 feet height, and in order to properly contain horses in stall runs and paddocks, horse fencing should be at least 6 feet tall. If you do not build fence at the right height, it is possible that a horse may be able to escape from his constraints.
Mistake 3: Not installing a minimum of three strands of ElectroBraid®.
ElectroBraid® should be utilized in a minimum of three strands, but four or more strands are preferable. Braids should be spaced apart in proportion to the size of your horses’ bodies.
Mistake 4: Hanging feed and water buckets on or too close to the fence.
It’s a no-brainer that hanging feed and water buckets (particularly metal ones) on or too close to your electric fence can result in your horse receiving an unnecessary electric shock. This can lead horses to become distressed and produce problems with confinement. Make sure to maintain feed and water containers at least a few feet away from fences, providing your horse enough of space to eat and drink without being accidentally corrected by the fence.
Mistake 5: Improperly grounding your fence.
The majority of electric fence problems are caused by improper grounding. If your fence is not grounded, when your horses come into touch with it, it will not complete the circuit and will fail to complete the circuit. Three ground rods should be spaced at least ten feet apart, but depending on your soil and environmental circumstances, additional ground rods could be required to meet your needs. Check out these helpful hints for getting a good footing.
Mistake 6: Turning off your energizer to save money.
You may not be aware of how much it costs to operate an energizer. It costs approximately the same as operating a 100-watt lightbulb for a month – or around $1.50 each year. Turning off your energizer allows your horse to find that the fence is no longer “hot,” which increases the likelihood of his escaping – especially if he’s been keeping an eye on that mare in the other paddock while you’ve been out of the barn. Because of the static charge, horses tend to test the fence by bringing their faces in closer and closer to it.
A non-energized barrier will be recognized by the animals.
Mistake 7: Failing to properly tension, or maintain tension on your ElectroBraid® Fence.
To securely re-enter his cage, ElectroBraid® is intended to “give” when a charging horse charges through it. It is possible to endure up to 1,300 pounds of panicked-horse strain when the Braid is correctly tensioned. Follow these tensioning guidelines to guarantee that your fence is in the safest possible condition.
Mistake 8: Draping hoses or other materials over your fence.
Placing hoses, blankets, or other objects over your fence has the potential to cause your fence line to become shorted.
If you need to bring hoses into your paddock, make sure you run them under the fence or through your gate.
Mistake 9: Piling hay too close to the fence.
Hay is meant for horses, therefore it’s inevitable that they’ll try to eat it. Piling hay too close to the fence can cause your horse to be excessively shocked as he attempts to get a bite, but it can also cause your fence line to be shorted out completely.
Mistake 10: Not thoroughly inspecting your fence and posts after storms and during droughts.
Unless you inspect your fence line and posts after major storms and during droughts, you might be setting yourself up for disaster. In addition, high winds may cause branches to fall into your fence wire, and dry soil may allow fence posts to become loose. In addition, the weight of a large snowfall might cause fence lines to droop and become tattered.
Mistake 11: Attempting energizer repairs on your own.
In the event that you’re trying to get rid of your warranty, taking your energizer apart is a certain technique to accomplish it. Contact the manufacturer; it’s possible that sending the energizer back in for repairs would resolve your problem. ElectroBraid® fence chargers are covered by a three-year limited guarantee that covers lightning damage. To ensure that your warranty is activated, be sure to register online.
Mistake 12: Using more than one energizer on your fence line.
Never use more than one energizer in a paddock or continuous fence line, and never use them together. Double-supplying electrical power to a fence is risky since it increases the risk of serious injury or fire, not to mention damage to the fence itself.
Mistake 13: Standing near, or allowing your horses to stand near an electric fence during a storm.
Okay, this may seem like a no-brainer, but it bears repeating: don’t stand too close to an electrified fence during a thunderstorm. Keep in mind that your fence is a large electrical circuit that is susceptible to being struck by lightning: if you get too close, you will be struck as well.
Mistake 14: Not wearing rubber-soled shoes and rubber gloves while testing your fence.
In order to avoid startling yourself, you should always dress appropriately when testing your fence. This is especially important if you aim to shock yourself. In the event that you come into touch with the fence, rubber gloves and shoes will assist to reduce the likelihood of receiving an unintended shock.
Mistake 15: Neglecting to place warning signs at the proper intervals.
Other persons are at danger of getting shocked if warning signs are not correctly placed – this is especially true if your fence is located near a traffic or sidewalk. Every 200-250 feet, place warning signs to indicate the location of an electric fence. Always verify local fencing rules before installing an electric fence. If you follow best practices when it comes to electric horse fence, you can be assured that your horses will be happy and secure. Do you have any more horse fence safety recommendations?
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