What Is Buddy Sour Horse? (Solution)

By “attached” I mean that the horses exhibit a behavior commonly known as “buddy sour.” The term basically means the horses have a tough time paying attention or functioning without the other horse around. Buddy sour behavior can often be scary and intimidating if you’re not prepared to deal with it.

What do you do when your horse is Buddy sour?

When you’re dealing with a buddy-sour horse, the most important thing to remember is to get the horse’s feet under control. Move his feet forward, backward, left, and right. Make the right thing (being by himself) easy and the wrong thing (being with his buddy) difficult. The best cure is prevention.

What does it mean when a horse is sour?

In essence, the word sour describes a horse’s negative mental reaction to a circumstance. A ring sour horse is one that either refuses to enter or shows great distaste for entering the show ring. Such a horse is often referred to as arena sour.

Can you separate buddy sour horses?

Making the Split Once the horse focuses on me and is safe to handle while on his own but still in the vicinity of his pal, you can make the split. Two hours seems like forever when you’re watching a horse pining for his buddy, but in confirmed cases be prepared for the anguish to go on for two or three days.

Why do horses get barn sour?

Barn sour is a term used by horsemen to describe a horse that doesn’t want to leave home, presenting resistance or complete refusal if you try to ride him away from his comfort area. Horses become barn sour for various reasons – usually human error in handling or training, not understanding how the horse’s mind works.

How do you separate two horses?

Once the horse focuses on me and is safe to handle while on his own but still in the vicinity of his pal, you can make the split. The best option is to remove one horse from the property for at least two weeks. The back-and-forth whinnying of two horses within earshot of each other can drive everyone nuts.

Why is my horse napping?

Napping often stems from a fundamental problem such as lack of trust, leadership, respect and/or confidence between horse and rider. However, before you put it down to bad behaviour rule out any potential medical causes — such as back pain and poor teeth — and make sure your horse’s tack is a good fit.

What does it mean when a horse is herd bound?

Typical herd-bound behavior is a horse bulging and pulling to get back to his group of friends. Or, it can be two or more particular horses that are inseparable, calling to each other across the barn aisle or whinnying like crazy in the pasture.

Do horses grieve when another horse dies?

They do have emotions, and they certainly can interact with their environment and feel things. When horses die, other horses close to them exhibit grief-like behavior, which can become excessive at times.

Do horses remember other horses?

We have all seen stories about horses who were once best friends being reunited after long separations. There is no doubt that they remember each other and the bond they have. Not only do horses remember each other, but they also show affection to the horses they have close bonds with.

Do horses grieve when sold?

It is important to keep in mind that a horse can also grieve when one of his buddies is sold or otherwise moved, or if he is changing owners. Loneliness magnifies grief, and good company recovers the spirit, in humans and horses alike. Dr.

How do you deal with a stubborn horse?

When your stubborn horse does walk forward, stop tapping and pushing, turn in the direction he is going and walk with him for five or six strides. Stop him and reward with a good rub and a kind word. Repeat this procedure over and over again.

5 Ways to Cure a Barn- or Buddy-Sour Horse

The practice of working your horse in the round pen with his companion encourages him to seek comfort from you rather than his buddy. Photo courtesy of John Brasseaux Nothing kills trailriding ambitions faster than a horse that refuses to leave—either physically or mentally—despite repeated requests. “A horse is a social animal that like to be in an environment where he feels at ease,” explains Randy Rieman, a horseman from Dillon, Montana. “That frequently happens when there are other horses nearby.” Rieman has worked with horses and cattle herds all throughout the Western United States.

To do this, he advises, “you must divert your trail horse’s attention away from his companion, barn, trailer, or other item that is distracting him” and direct it toward submitting to your feel.


Beginning with the very first ride, teach your horse that being with you is the greatest option for him.

  1. It is common for a horse that has formed a bond with another to be difficult to catch because he is unwilling to abandon his companion.
  2. Allow him to bring a friend along to the round pen.
  3. Depending on the sensitivity and experience of each horse, the pressure can take the shape of your voice, your body posture, or a flag—whatever it takes to start them going and keep them moving is appropriate.
  4. According to Rieman, you should avoid attempting to force them apart or hold them in place.
  5. In this example, the release occurs when your horse is separated from his companion and completely focused on you.
  6. “He’ll turn to face you first and say, ‘Here I am,’ before turning away.
  7. Allow the horse that has offered himself to you to stand calmly for a moment.

“Once the horses split and give themselves to me, I’ll approach them one at a time, first with one and then the other.

“If they depart, I allow them to reassemble and then put them to work until they split themselves again,” says the supervisor.


Saddling is another another instance in which your horse’s attention may be diverted elsewhere.

“I’d like to get his attention before I continue.” Take use of your horse’s nervous energy to train him to be more cooperative at the end of the halter rope, if possible.

The rider says that if his horse isn’t with him or isn’t providing stability on the trail, he’ll move him around on the lead, asking for yielding circles while leaving some slack in his rope.

Only until he has demonstrated stability and has offered to stand still should you saddle him.

Disconnect from the internet.

A rider thinks that if he can bring his horse down the route, everything would be great.

Both the horse and the rider are at risk in this situation.

Inviting him to offer his hips, shoulders, or ribs is a good idea.


Working on straightness not only aids in the breakup of buddy- and barn-sourness, but it also aids in the development of your horse’s compliance.

As a result, he explains, “when you’re riding parallel to a “magnet,” your horse’s shoulders and ribs will press in one way.” Use this to your advantage by encouraging the horse to continue down the curved route, so teaching him how much more comfortable he can be when he moves in a direct manner.

  1. To achieve straightness in your horse, rather than using an outer rein and leg to pull and push him back into place, try the polar opposite: pull and push him back into position.
  2. Your horse will begin to look for a way to relieve the strain on his body as soon as possible since his body is in a tight spot.
  3. “You’re taking advantage of your horse’s physical position,” Rieman explains, “but you’re also mentally unhooking him from the other horses and getting him interested in going where you’re going.” For a while, your horse is under the impression that you are not going anywhere.
  4. His discovery that ‘coming in touch with your feelings’ is a better bargain.
  5. Discover your independence.
  6. You should allow your horse break a sweat performing activities that will be beneficial to both you and the horse in the future if he has to build up a sweat before he will be willing to depart freely.
  7. Make adjustments in direction as well as changes in speed.
  8. Don’t rush anything.
  9. In many cases, applying less pressure over a longer period of time is more productive and effective than applying more pressure over a shorter length of time.

“Ask for patience as the horse learns that fighting and tugging against the pressure does not result in freedom—only in submitting to it.” The original version of this article appeared in the August 2007 edition of Western Horseman.

Buddy Sour Horse

To begin, I’d want to bring out something important before I teach you how to cure a buddy’s sour horse. The most effective and long-lasting treatment for a buddy-sour horse is to establish a horse-human connection in which your horse receives the leadership and comfort he seeks from you rather than his friend. Horses are herd animals, which means they have a bad attitude toward one another. They also require a strong leader, an alpha, and someone they can rely on. Normally, that would be another horse, but it may (and should) be you in this case.

It’s also possible that your horse is suffering from a mental health problem, which might be a contributing factor to his friend sour difficulties.

Ok, Here’s How To Cure A Buddy Sour Horse

The first and most important thing to do is. Horses are incapable of doing anything good or bad. Horses will perform everything you ask of them if it makes them feel happy. In other words, if you make one action seem better than another, people will always choose the path that offers the least amount of resistance. The question is, how can you make one activity seem better than another? You pave the way by showing them one option is easier than the other by applying pressure and releasing it at the appropriate times.

  • Consider the case of deer.
  • Why?
  • A nimal (and humans, for that matter) will always seek the path of least resistance, and once they have discovered it, they will follow it.
  • This is something that, if we have it down, the horse will nearly train itself.

Here’s An (Non Buddy Sour Horse Related) Example…

Consider the scenario of a horse that rears up when requested to back up. Isn’t it true that backing up is simpler than backing up and flipping over backwards? It is, without a doubt, the case. However, you must be able to discern that, in that horse’s mind, he is persuaded that the best thing to do (in order to relieve the strain from the reins) is to rear up and away from you. He would do something better if he knew of something better to do in his place. So many times, we observe a horse that is trying his hardest to figure out the human, but he is unable to do so because of the human’s approach to the situation.

The horse, on the other hand, has no option but to do these actions.

He’s doing the best he can given the circumstances. He’s doing the best he knows how to do. It is our responsibility to pave an alternative, more straightforward way. It is never the horse who is responsible for making the modification. It is always the person who is at fault.

Now That I Got That Out Of The Way…

I was at a local barrel racing with some of my buddies, just hanging out and catching up with them. Amber approached me as the event drew to a close, asking if I would be prepared to spend a few minutes working with her friend’s sour (herd tied) horse. I didn’t have anything else planned for the day, so I told her I’d be delighted to help. She stated to me that she had two barrel horses, and that anytime she rode one of them, the other would start acting up and fighting her to get back to the other horse, which she eventually won by force.

  • What do you believe it was about the horses that made them want to be together?
  • Amber’s horses were put through a lot of labor because they were competing in barrel races on a regular basis.
  • As a result, the horses began to associate being together with a better deal than working with Amber.
  • As riders, it is our responsibility to forge a new way.
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So Here’s What I Did

I ordered Amber to stand out in the middle of an open pasture and hold one of her horses. I climbed aboard the other horse and drew my arms over my chest, which caused the animal to begin moving. This horse was so buddy sour that he began performing circles around the other horse. So Iamped up the pace (pressure), started moving the horse, and made him work and work and work. Eventually the horse decided he’d had enough of that, turned his snout, and began walking away from the horse Amber was holding (he made a shift) (he made a change).

What Do You Think I Did At This Point?

I took quick action to relieve all of the strain. I stepped back and let the horse to simply calm and relax. That didn’t last long at all, though. He came to the conclusion that he wanted to go back for some more. So, when he began to approach the second horse, I lowered my reins and increased the pressure on him once again. We’re going around and around! I just kept going until the horse changed his mind and chose to try something different. As soon as I began to cut away (make a change), I let him to relax and enjoy himself.

It was much more convenient to just sit on the other side of the meadow and rest instead.

I was surprised.

You Could Do This Exact Same Thing To A Barn Sour Horse

If your horse is always wishing to return to the barn, give him permission to do so. However, when he arrives at the stable, do not remove his saddle and allow him to relax. Make him put in some effort when he returns to the barn. Run him around in circles, lunge at him, or simply do something to distract him. It really doesn’t matter what you do as long as you’re putting the horse to work for your efforts. He’ll rapidly come to identify the barn with more difficult tasks, and he’ll swiftly forget about the barn’s unpleasant taste.

Carson James has a foundation in Vaquero Horsemanship, and he has spent the most of his professional life working on cattle ranches, where he has ridden horses all day, every day.

The Buckaroo Crew is a group of horse enthusiasts who have come together to share their expertise and experience.

They can be found on his blog, Insider list, and Buckaroo Crew pages. For both horses and humans, he has a unique knack of simplifying things down to the point where they are easily comprehended by both.

When Your Horse is Buddy Sour – And You’re Losing Your Confidence

You’ve always dreamed of keeping your horses at home and riding out into the sunset with your loved ones. There’s just one problem: your loyal steed has gone sour on you. As soon as you attempt to ride her away from your other horses, she transforms into a screaming meemie and a bundle of anxieties. What a dreadful situation! Continue reading for advice on how to improve your horse’s barn sour behavior.

What is Buddy Sour?

First and first, it is necessary to comprehend what it means to be Buddy Sour. In the horse world, this type of behavior is referred to by a variety of names. Whatever name you choose, it refers to a horse who wants to remain at thebarn rather than one that wants to return quickly. In addition, it demonstrates resistance and undesirable behaviors.

What Causes Horses To Be Barn Sour?

Horses are herd animals, which means they follow the herd. Being away from their herd puts them in a vulnerable position in their eyes. They are vulnerable in the sense that they may become meal for a predator that they are well aware is lurking nearby, preparing to pounce on them! Because that is exactly what happens to a horse in the wild if it is not part of a herd. You’ve probably gone out with a bunch of pals in a strange environment and found yourself isolated from them at some point. If it hasn’t happened recently, it’s likely that it did happen at some point throughout your childhood (or to your child).

  1. You’re in a foreign country where you don’t understand the language.
  2. You also don’t have access to your cell phone.
  3. You were taken in by that one, weren’t you?) How did you feel at the time?
  4. Scared.
  5. Maybe even a little frightened?
  6. Separation Anxiety is the term used to describe it.

What To Do To Help Your Barn Sour Horse

“Well, that’s fantastic, Anne,” I hear you say, “but what do I do about it?” I hear you ask. In the meanwhile, I’d want to ride my horse without her going into a conniption fit. “Do you remember my fantasy of riding out into the sunset?” says the author. I’ve taken care of everything. The following is an outline of the steps you should take to assist your horse. You must assist her in being comfortable with the fact that she is socially separated from other horses. That is not something that just happens.

This is a very essential section.

As a result, if your horse becomes upset every time she is separated from her friends (and she happens to be with you at the time), that is the behavior that is being rewarded. It’s always going to be an unpleasant and difficult experience for her to say goodbye to her friends.

Find Your Barn Sour Horse’s Comfort Zone

If you can figure out how far away your horse can be from her pals while still staying calm and comfortable, that’s where you should begin your search. You’ve figured out what her comfort zone is. It’s possible that it’s right across the field from where you are. That’s OK with me. That is where you should begin. You take her a few steps away from the danger zone and keep an eye out for when the tension begins to build up. After that, you return her to her familiar surroundings until she calms down.

  • Make her seem good
  • Scratch her favorite spots on the map
  • Feed her– cereal in the morning and evening, or a special treat like carrots or apples in the afternoon

Make the time you spend with your pal on the sour horse something truly memorable.

Stay On The Right Side Of Your Horse’s Fear Threshold

By the way, if your pal sour horse is refusing to eat, you’ve gone a little too far outside of her natural comfort zone. She’s crossed the line into fear-induced paralysis. She doesn’t appear to be thinking. She’s fully relying on instinct to get her by. Return her to a place where she feels safe and secure, and give her time to calm down. If she appears to be a little anxious, but will eat peacefully, you’ve arrived at the proper location. Begin with 5- to 10-minute sessions to get your bearings.

Slowly Expand Your Buddy Sour Horse’s Comfort Zone

As your horse becomes more accustomed to being away from her friends, you may progressively increase the distance between them (again, gradually) and/or the length of time she spends apart from her friends. Depending on your preference, you may either lead or ride her around the paddock perimeter. If you are in a safe environment where there are no possible threats to you or her. If your driveway isn’t too far away from the paddock, you can lead or ride her down the street to your house. And she manages to keep below her terror threshold.

If you notice any, take her back to her safe haven so she may relax and recover.

As a result, start carefully and progressively increase the area you are bringing her away from home as well as the amount of time you are taking her away.

How Long Does It Take to Stop Being Buddy Sour?

That being said, I am unable to estimate how long this procedure will take. Horses are as unique as individuals are in their own way. But what I can tell you is that consistency and repetition do have an impact on the outcome and how long it takes to bring about a behavioral change in an individual. As a result, spend as much time as possible working with your horse. Remember to keep the sessions short– a few decent minutes repeated a couple of times a day or three times a week will be far more effective than an hour once a week will be!

She, like you, does not take pleasure in or desire to be in this state of mind.

She is not acting in a spoiled manner. Alternatively, attempting to avoid working. She’s experiencing a panic attack right now. She’s afraid for her life, and that’s why. That’s how she sees the issue at the moment. When you’re feeling down,

  • Understand your horse’s point of view so that you can assist her in having positive experiences while you are with her. If you follow this methodical training strategy, she will begin to feel more comfortable and secure in your company.

Moreover, you and your horse will develop a much greater relationship as a result of this experience.

Buddy Sour Horses: Break the Bond by Clinton Anderson

See page 16 of the October issue. Horse Digest is a publication dedicated to horses. Clinton Anderson is featured on the cover of this month’s issue of Horse Digest. Horses are herd-dependent prey animals that hunt in packs. It was only through being in a herd and outrunning predators that they had any hope of surviving millions of years ago. Even though we’ve tamed horses and taught them to participate in a variety of competitions, we haven’t been able to breed or teach them to suppress the reactive, prey animal portion of their minds.

  1. The reactive side is what Mother Nature instructs the horse to employ, and it is this side that has enabled the horse to survive for millions of years in her environment.
  2. The thinking side of the horse’s brain is the calm, logical half of the horse’s brain.
  3. Horses have a natural aversion to being separated from one another because they understand that there is safety in numbers.
  4. Instead of making the horse believe that being with his buddy is the nicest thing in the world, you must persuade the horse that being with his buddy is the worst thing that could possibly happen to him.
  5. It is possible for horses to get extremely irritable with their buddies in two scenarios.
  6. Horses who have to separate from the group and go their own way frequently jig, rear, and buck or engage in any other disrespectful conduct to try to get back with the other horses, which may be very frustrating for the other horses.

Buddysourness is treated with in both situations using the same philosophy””make the horse move his feet forwards, backwards, left and right, but in somewhat different methods.” When Working in a Group Situation If you’re riding your horse in a group scenario and need to go your separate way, instead of thinking, “I need to remove him from his companions,” consider, “I need to make the horse uncomfortable since he’s in the company of his friends.” Try to work with his friends rather than attempting to take him away from them.

  1. Make him trot around in circles, canter some serpentines, or do whatever else to get his feet moving.
  2. After 10 to 15 minutes of heavy effort in the company of his friends, take him 50 to 100 feet away and give him some time to recover.
  3. It’s critical to have a beginning point for your horse’s training.
  4. That’s OK; you want to gradually increase your horse’s self-confidence one step at a time.
  5. Although the horse will most likely be anxious to rejoin the herd when you get back to the stable, put him to work as soon as you are back with the herd.
  6. One horse will take the lead, while the other will follow close after.
  7. The horses have the ability to exchange roles, so that the leader can become the follower and vice versa, depending on the situation.
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This way, you’ll be able to provide the horse at the same time.

Remove the horses’ feet from the ground after 10 to 15 minutes of hustling them and let each of them to rest for five to six minutes.

After five to ten repetitions of the activity, the horse will not be bothered by being separated from his companion since he will have had plenty opportunity to recover.

I’ve been abandoned at home.

The safety of these animals should be your number one priority.

You want to prevent allowing the horse to go up and down the field and become so disturbed and frantic that he finally runs through the fence or attempts to leap it and gets entangled in it, which is dangerous.

I’ve discovered that the most effective method of correcting this tendency is to force the horse to hustlehis feet forward, backward, left, and right.

Prepare the horse that will be left behind before you leave out for a horse-drawn carriage journey.

If you find him in a field, try to catch him.

Allow the horse to relax and regain his breath for five to six minutes before returning him to the pasture and causing him to move his feet.

As time progresses, the horse that feels uneasy by himself will no longer be concerned about being alone since he will have to shift his feet every time the other horse comes by.

You want the horse that is left behind to become mentally accustomed to watching the other horse leaving and to understand that everything will be fine.

Keeping the horse moving away from the other horse without allowing it to rest will negate the entire aim of the exercise.

When his buddy comes around, he has to put in the effort and sweat to keep up.

Moving your horse away from his buddy will require you to practice taking him away from the other horse in order for him to not panic and use the reactive side of his brain every time he is separated from his buddy.

Getting control of a friend sour horse’s feet is the most crucial thing to remember while dealing with a buddy sour horse. Move his feet forwards, backwards, left and right to make the right thing simple and the wrong thing difficult, and the correct thing will be easy.

Tips For The Buddy Sour Horse

The majority of horse owners have had to deal with a buddy sour horse at some point. Once they are removed from their herd or horse companion, they will act out in a variety of ways, including jigging, bolting, bucking, and rearing. The buddy sour horse will not be focused on the rider, but will be more worried about returning to his group of companions. It is normal for your horse to desire to be with his herd; nevertheless, if he reacts inappropriately to the circumstance, he may become hazardous to others.

  • It is critical to practice safety and go at a pace that is appropriate for you.
  • If he throws a tantrum when riding but not while walking around the barn, you can start off without a horse.
  • Begin in an open arena where you will have plenty of room to maneuver your horse.
  • Once he has regained his concentration, request that your pal move their horse away.
  • Bring the friend back to your horse as soon as possible, before he has a chance to exhibit signs of discomfort.
  • With time, and as your horse continues to benefit from the activity and makes progress, you can begin to move the friend further away for longer durations.
  • It is critical that he maintains his attention on you, but you must likewise maintain your attention on him and not on his departing companion.
  • Over a number of sessions, your horse will finally make significant improvement.
  • (This article was originally published in February 2017.)

How to Fix a Buddy-Sour Horse

In order to train horses, Clinton Anderson of Downunder Horsemanship has developed a tried and effective approach. It is the training of the proprietors that is the true challenge. With the help of problem horses and problem owners, he will handle some of the most difficult circumstances imaginable. This week, we’ll witness as Clinton strives to demonstrate the most effective approach to cure a couple of horses that can’t seem to get away from each other’s side. Every now and again, you’ll come across a pair of horses who are inseparable from one another.

  1. While it may not appear to be a major condition at first glance, horses suffering from separation anxiety can have a great deal of difficulty and can even put themselves and their owners in danger.
  2. The relationship they form keeps them both peaceful when they’re together, but presents complications when they’re separated.
  3. When you attempt to ride the horses, this creates an issue since they must remain in close proximity to one another, which might result in dangerous scenarios on the route.
  4. Clinton explains that in order to alleviate the horses’ separation anxiety, it is necessary to exercise them together while allowing them to rest apart.
  5. They will eventually start to regard being together as labor and being alone as pleasant as a result of this practice.
  6. The most effective method to do this is to begin slowly and with two trainers working together.
  7. When you perform this training on the horses, after approximately four or five repetitions over the period of a few days, the horses will begin to disengage.

However, working them in such close proximity will force them to engage the analytical half of their brains, and they will begin to equate being together with the fact that they are required to work.

Clinton and his apprentice demonstrate how to achieve this by doing two-horse training and resting cycles on two different horses.

When the horses are resting, they gradually increase the space between them so that they begin to develop their own, individual confidence and quit relying on one another for comfort.

To ensure that your horse understands that being apart from his or her friend horse represents rest and a chance to unwind, you must remember to provide them total relaxation throughout the resting moments.

One key point to keep in mind throughout this training is that your horse should never be allowed to relax with the other horse.

Clinton Anderson has devised a strategy that may be used to assist in the training of any horse, regardless of their difficulty.

As a result, we’ve developed three new options for you to obtain the information you want at the price you choose.

There are over 100 hours of free, in-depth training information available through the Downunder Horsemanship app as well.

Head over to our webpage and download the Downunder Horsemanshipapp now to learn more about the Clinton Anderson training technique, to become a member of the No Worries Club, or to obtain information on any of the items featured on our program.

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How to Sweeten a Barn-Sour Horse

Every time you try to ride your horse away from the stable, does he throw “I don’t want to go tantrums” and refuse to leave? Alternatively, when you turn him back toward the barn, does he begin power walking or jigging back to his stall. If this is the case, you are not alone. Equine socialization is important, and horses quickly form bonds with one another, which might make them hesitant to leave the stable. It’s true that one of the most often requested questions I receive is how to repair a barn-sour horse.

I always tell people to think of their horse’s desire to get back to the barn in this way when dealing with barn-sour horses: If you worked for me and I forced you to work all day in a field under the hot sun and at the end of the day I took you to an air conditioned room, let you relax, and gave you ice cream to eat, it wouldn’t take long for you to resent going out in the field and start looking forward to quitting time.

If you worked for me If the game started at 3 p.m., you’d want to leave the field at 2, then 1, and eventually you’d want to avoid going to the field altogether.

At the barn, he may rest, relax, eat, and socialize with his friends, all while getting some exercise.

Which one do you think is a better deal in your opinion?


You might be able to move your horse about 20 or 30 feet down the path before he begins backing up, racing sideways, or rearing in frustration. As you try to urge him to leave the barn, you’re a picture of flailing reins and spurs. But the more you try to persuade him to leave the barn, the more aggressive and disrespectful he becomes. To him, staying in the barn is preferable to being ridden and put through his paces. Horses are, at their core, sluggish beasts. They’d rather put out the least amount of effort necessary in order to get the day over and done with as quickly as possible.

  1. It is necessary to utilize some reverse psychology in order to get the horse to desire to leave the barn.
  2. You’ll do this by putting in long hours in the barn, where he prefers to be.
  3. It is more important for the horse to pay attention to you and concentrate on his work the more direction changes you can have him do.
  4. It doesn’t matter how you move his feet; what matters is that you make him hurry and shift directions frequently.
  5. No matter what you do, the most important thing is to get his feet moving.
  6. As an alternative to simply making him hot and sweaty, train on him at the same time in order to soften and supple his five body parts while also increasing the level of his responsiveness.
  7. So if he’s hopping up like he wants to rear or if he’s rushing backwards, don’t be concerned about him rearing; instead, direct his attention to the ground and put his feet to use.

When a horse’s feet are moving, he cannot rear up.

While he’s resting, put him on a big, loose rein and rub his neck.

Let the horse rest a good five to 10 minutes before taking him back to the barn and working him again.

If he wants to trot or lope back to the barn, let him.

Work the horse at the barn, hustling his feet and constantly changing directions.

What you do with the horse is up to you.

Rest the horse away from the barn on a big, loose rein.Concentrate on getting the horse to take the bait—standing still is much easier than going back to the barn and working hard.

If you just let him lollygag around like “Come on, Precious, you need to move your feet,” he won’t catch on to the lesson.

Initially, you’ll have to establish a starting point as to how far away from the barn you can take the horse.

The first time you take him away from the barn, you might only get 30 feet away from it.

Where your starting point is doesn’t matter.

Once you have a starting point established, then you can gradually build on it.

If you think the horse is going to stop 45 feet away from the barn, then you stop him and let him rest 43 feet away from the barn.

Practice working the horse at the barn and resting him away from it four or five rides in a row before even thinking about trail riding.

By the time you take him on the trail, you want the horse to be thinking, “Man, I’m happy to leave the barn, there’s nothing back there for me except hard work and sweat.”


Some horse owners are experiencing the inverse situation with their animals. The horse may be happy to leave the barn, but as soon as he turns toward home, he either starts power walking back or grabs the bit and sprints for home, depending on the situation. he’s in a rush since he believes that the barn is the most amazing spot on the planet. What reason would he have not to? His saddle is removed, he is cleaned up and fed while he is there, and he gets to mingle with his friends. Allow him to return home if he is of this sort of horse.

  1. Repetition of the procedure I explained before is required.
  2. That should be repeated five or six times in a row to make the horse learn that the barn isn’t always the ideal place to be.
  3. That’s equivalent to stating, “You were absolutely correct!
  4. After a training session, I enjoy tying my horses up to allow them to absorb the lessons learned that day.
  5. No matter how quickly your horse returns to the barn after you have worked him, it is still a good idea to perform some routine care on him.
  6. Do anything to get him to move his feet and to remind him that just because he’s back at the barn doesn’t mean he’ll be relieved of his responsibilities right away.
  7. Getting back to the stable and quickly unsaddling him, putting him away, and providing some feed is the last thing you want to do with your horse.
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One method of preventing your horse from trying to rush back to the barn is to return to it by a variety of routes. To put it another way, try not to return to the barn on the same trail every time you go. Alternatively, when you return to the stable, work the horse and then immediately ride him off on another trail is an option. Maintain a one-step advantage over him. My horses are treated in this manner even when I am riding them in the arena. Because all of my arenas have various gates through which I can bring my horses in and out, I’m cognizant of the fact that I should always leave the arenas by different gates.

As a result, the horses are prevented from becoming fixated on a particular gate and believing that it is the means by which they might escape labor.

Dismount away from the barn.

When dealing with serious cases of barn-sour horses, you can also dismount the horse and take it away from the barn after performing the cure I suggested. You should get off of him, loosen up his girth, and then hand walk him back to his house. This just reinforces the idea in the horse’s head that just because he’s in the barn doesn’t mean his workday is over. This isn’t essential for the majority of horses, but it may be quite beneficial in extreme circumstances. Tie your horse to a tree or a post of knowledge at the conclusion of a horseback journey.

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How to Cure Horses That Are Buddy Sour

Whenever you take a horse out of the pasture, a neighboring horse becomes angry and starts bobbing his head and screaming out to his friend, the neighboring horse is described as becoming “buddy sour.” Buddy sour horses have the potential to be hazardous. Buddy sour horses may be cured by teaching your horses to feel safe in your presence and by conducting separation exercises with them.

Ground Manners

Make little adjustments to your horses’ ground manners to ensure that they feel safe in your presence. Walk one horse out from the pasture but still in sight of the other horses, keeping his ears in line with your body as you go. This horse should be the lead horse. Allowing him to walk in front of or behind you is not permitted, and you must ensure that he follows your pace and does not tug on the lead rope. Give your horses positive reinforcement when they behave well on the ground. Return the first horse to his pasture and repeat the process with the second horse, working on ground manners in the same manner.

Leaving the Pasture

While the horse is in his pasture, put a lead rope around the neck of one of the horses who is friend sour. Point him in the direction of the exit gate. Stop at the gate and give the horse a reward, such as an apple slice, while praising him and encouraging him to keep going. Allow this horse to graze for a few minutes before leading him back toward the other horse or other horses in the pasture. Bring him back to the gate and unlock it for him. You can step through the open gate and stand on one side of the horse while giving him treats if your horse balks or attempts to turn and look at his pasture mate or pasture mates.

Return to the gate and assist him in passing over it.

Separation Training Tips

As you bring a friend sour horse away from the other horses, gradually increase the distance between you and them and only give him goodies when he is calm. You should teach both of your friend sour horses to be independent of one another if you have two of them. Separation training exercises are performed. You should work with your horses twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening, immediately before supper – you’re rewarding your horses with a meal for their cooperation with you.

This will ensure that they do not become buddy-sour in the future.

Remove a horse from the pasture for shots, teeth floating, or a farrier appointment until your training is complete and your horses are no longer buddy sour. This will prevent them from associating being led away from their friends with an unpleasant activity.

  • Never approach a horse that is upset immediately from behind. When he is trying to return to his pasture companions, he may kick, rear up, or bite you to get your attention. If a horse suddenly develops a bad attitude toward its companions, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out any underlying sickness that may be driving the behavior.

BibliographyWriter’s Bio Mary Lougee has been writing professionally for more than ten years. She has a Bachelor’s Degree in Management with a concentration in Accounting and a double minor in Computer Science. She is also fluent in Spanish. She has a particular interest in writing about jobs for busy families, as well as family-oriented planning, meals, and activities for all ages and stages of development.

Dealing with the Barn Sour Horse

Horsemen use the phrase barn sour to describe a horse that refuses to leave its home, exhibiting reluctance or outright rejection if you attempt to ride him away from his familiar surroundings. Horses get barn sour for a variety of causes, the most common of which is human mistake in handling or training, or a failure to comprehend how the horse’s mind works. The horse, being a herd animal, loves to spend his time with his companions. Unless he has formed a strong link with the person who is leading or riding him, he may be hesitant to leave them behind.

They quickly discover that they would prefer to be in their stall or enclosure than than being ridden.

When you get at your destination, some people may accelerate, perhaps attempting to sprint home.

His determination to stay home may become hazardous if you attempt to ride away from the barn, in which case he may rear, bucks, or bolt as you begin to ride back home while on your ride back home.

When it comes to re-training a horse who is reluctant to leave the stable, riding in the company of another horse is frequently the most effective method of starting over.

Your horse may get preoccupied with his partner rather than wishing to return home.

Work the horse for a short period of time around the barn before putting him in his stall or pen when you return home again.

Bring the horses back to the barn and train the barn sour horse in an arena so that he needs to work hard – and then move slowly away from the barn with the other horse to finish the ride.

You should start working him hard when you get home if you have a horse who wants to rush back to the barn when you arrive.

Depending on the terrain, you may opt to make a series of little circles or just turn around and head in a new direction.

You make it more difficult for the horse to perform what he wants to do than it would be if he just remained comfortable during the ride.

You provide the horse with an option and let him to make the decision, but it may take several changes of direction or working in circles to get him to alter his mind.

Having a second horse might offer a sense of security.

It is beneficial to ride some of these horses with a rein that is attached to the halter so that you may tug on the halter instead of only the reins if required.

Putting excessive pressure on the bit when firmness is required is not neccessarily the case.

Most of the time, convincing the horse that he will have to work hard if he attempts to do anything he is not supposed to does the trick for you.

If he discovers that walking away from the barn rather than working hard when he is at the barn is the most convenient option, he will almost always choose to do so.

In the event that you are on your way home and he picks up pace, you may force him to change directions or make him perform circles and zigzags to keep him guessing, ensuring that he never knows exactly when you are truly on your way home.

While he is out from home, he has the opportunity to enjoy something enjoyable and may come to know that home is not the only safe and decent place to be.

This method has the potential to interrupt the run-home cycle.

In other cases, you may want to let the horse to hurry home before forcing him to continue working in enormous circles.

Many horses will be discouraged from attempting to flee home as a result of this.

He is not allowed to stop when he returns home; he is required to continue.

If you can work with a horse’s way of thinking rather than against it, your methods will be more effective; this will result in what you want him to accomplish being his notion.

There is no one-size-fits-all approach that works for every horse, and some persons are better at administering a cure than others.

Some situations, particularly when the rider does not feel comfortable, necessitate the employment of a specialist to correct the situation.

The horse must first learn to respect you before he can learn to trust you.

It is critical to maintain consistency.

When a horse is met with someone who is too forgiving one day and too forceful the next, it might get confused.

Horses that are barn-sour or anxious to get home are not punished; instead, we force them to work – until they learn that they don’t actually want to be doing this much labor in the first place. Overall, your goal is to influence the horse’s decision to take the shorter, more straightforward way.

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